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Old May 20, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #21  
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who did the build?
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #22  
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who did the build?
I did the build. It's not my first rodeo, but it is the first time I haven't gotten close to my expectations.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #23  
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Unless you have the cams off a tooth, it's your program.
As I said before, I know nothing about the tuner you are using but it seems to me all the specifics are not aligned with your bikes parts.

See if they'll send you the map so you can have your dyno guy run through it for comparisons.

A TTS tuner will save you a lot of head-ache and about every shop is able to tune with them.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:43 PM
  #24  
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If your tuner thinks your bike has 5.3 injectors, the squirt of fuel will be a lot shorter duration vs if it thinks you have 4.3's. Could be the reason you're adjusting your air to fuel at 13/1 and the results are 13.8/1???
The tuner does take this into account, in fact the one thing that Thunder-Max says is important when choosing a map is the injector size. Also getting a map with a cam that has close to the same duration as the one you're running helps. I can also tell you that Revolution Performance has spent a lot of time setting the EMS up to fit my needs even going so far as to build an engine the same size, compression, exhaust, and stage II heads to test it on. I cannot fault them for support. This is why I am now to the point where I am looking for the unusual suspect. I considered a TTS, I know they are good tuners, but so is the Tmax and hundreds if not thousands of riders have had good results from the EMS. There is something that I and the techs who have tuned for me have over looked. I was just hoping that someone else has had this problem and solved it so they could tell me what to look for.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:45 PM
  #25  
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How well do the heads flow? The injector size that you tell the computer you are running will effect how long it keeps the injectors open but some guys will enter smaller injectors in the computer while running the larger ones to gain more flow when they are reaching the end of the duty cycle. I will say that a good tuning person got me over 7&7 while lowering my temps and increasing ridability. So in my mind its not the tool so much as the tradesman. I had my bike previously tuned by 2 different tuners. 1st guy got 7&10 over a canned map but she ran hot. 2nd guy didn't get me anything but she gained throttle response. 3rd guy was magic. Sepst was used all 3 times.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 10:07 PM
  #26  
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Change the fuel filter.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 11:57 PM
  #27  
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Change the fuel filter.
I did that about 7k mi ago. Also replaced the canister with up graded model. I know there is also another piece to it that wasn't available when I did this that has been upgraded that I might try. You do bring up a point that fuel pressure could be involved. Thanks.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:54 AM
  #28  
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Don't recall exactly off the top of my head ... but, I think the fuel pressure out of the tank fitting is supposed to be 55-60 PSI range ...

There was an issue that was raised in the Dyna forum about pinhole leaks in the in-tank plastic fuel line ... chafing would wear a tiny hole ... it would divert part of the pressure back into the fuel tank, reducing the fuel pressure to the line out ...

Just an FYI as the fuel pressure question was raised ... don't know if this was ever a problem on the Touring models ...
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 06:32 AM
  #29  
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160 cranking psi is way low...How are you checking it?What is it now with the tman cams?
Which baffle are you running in the D&D?
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sporacer
160 cranking psi is way low...How are you checking it?What is it now with the tman cams?
Which baffle are you running in the D&D?
I agree and if that is where we're at now, I'd say thats definitely a problem but I was under the impression we were at 195 and 193 psi under the current configuration.

Please clarify, OP.
 
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