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I have a pair on my 05 Road King Classic, I Love them & have had many comments on how good they sound. But you can bet the minute I get home from work I am going to go check mine for cracks. I have 1500 miles on so far & nothing but praise.
Reddawg
That mounting tab seems to be in a place that would be subject to torsional stress as the engine bounces around,the stress point would be at that mount being the last place to be secured to the engine solidly. The rubber mount on the end of the muffler keeps it from moving too much, but allows it to move in reaction to the engine movement and that's what happens as a result., the tab lets go. There should be some kind of a flexible spring joint on that tab to eliminate this problem, not a rigid tab .When you accelerate, all the stress would be put on the front edge of that tab because of the engine wanting to lift in the front, as shown in the picture. Instead of an "L" shaped tab,if the object is a solid mount, it should be a "U" shaped tab and mounted or welded on with the open in the "U" facing rearward, and a bit longer to tolerate the flex better. Look at it this way, the pipe is bolted solid to the head and then bolted solidly at that bracket and when the engine rocks, the rear muffler mount is flexible so all the stress is on that bracket. Just my .02
Now Mac, don't you want to learn welding too, think of it as a possible opportunity? You will like them and even if you have a problem, you'll like them.
It's my understanding that they have changed the mounting tab to another location, eliminating the problem. Mine were out of the 90 day warranty and they are sending a replacement free. That seems pretty decent to me and I personally like the sound. Maybe someday I'll try some V&H. I probably would like them too. But right now I have Bubs and they are fixing them so I'm happy. Besides, I have a good Mig welder and some good welding skills so it really isn't a big problem for me.
Don't worry Mike, I'm still here. Just got back from vacation this weekend.
I've got Rineharts with several thousand miles on them with no problems. I'm sure if I have problems they will make it right. They seem to be a very good company. One of my dealer friends had a 2005 Roadglide with a 117 cu in 2038 cc engine which runs like nothing I've ever been on before. He runs duals because he dyno'd with more hp with them than a 2 into 1. He started with V&H with oval slip ons but blew the baffles completely out of the pipe in less than 300 miles. He now runs Rineharts and between his old thunderheader, V&H and the Rineharts he gets the best performance out of the Rineharts. I don't know why that is but I'm really good friends with him and they have some really good dyno techs. They all claim to be getting more hp from the Rineharts than from anyother combination on a bagger. I know that some on this forum don't agree with this with the whold theory on the crossover (which I don't understand either) but I have seen the dyno sheets. The Rinharts are more tunable than the V&H's. It takes longer but you get better results.
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