Fiction zone
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Ive tried playing with the adjustment to adjust the friction zone
and it never really moves it anywhere. I think the important thing is to make sure there freeplay before the clutch engages or it will be partially engaged and thats not good.
and it never really moves it anywhere. I think the important thing is to make sure there freeplay before the clutch engages or it will be partially engaged and thats not good.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Just like Big Trev said (Right and Wrong way). The problem is if you adjust the clutch the way you want it, it will most likely not be disengaging enough, putting additional stress on the transmission.
I don't like to have my clutch setup like that, but I think the best way to do it is by making the adjustment at the cable. The adjustment at the Clutch Basket is less forgiving.
Make sure the Basket is adjusted right, and then just loosen the cable adjustment to where you like the lever to operate; making sure the clutch is adjusted to allow proper engagement/disengagement
I don't like to have my clutch setup like that, but I think the best way to do it is by making the adjustment at the cable. The adjustment at the Clutch Basket is less forgiving.
Make sure the Basket is adjusted right, and then just loosen the cable adjustment to where you like the lever to operate; making sure the clutch is adjusted to allow proper engagement/disengagement
Last edited by rdunn22; May 29, 2012 at 10:12 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the late model ball and ramp lever uses just about all the area of the clutch lever travel- this makes for less left hand effort.
the earlier ramp used a shorter lever, so more effort in less space- this better allowed the "working area" of the clutch lever to be moved closer or further from the grip.
The ball/ramp is less than $20 in parts. I do not now if the earlier version will fit into the current trap door
typical assembly looks likes the below linked diagram, the inner ramp ( #17) attaches to the clutch cable with the arm, the longer the arm the more clutch lever travel/less effort
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....W/-SIDE-COVERS
Having had earlier models; a popular mod was the white brothers easy boy lite clutch kit, which is essentially what HD offers now. The earlier clutch could make for a sore hand in a full day of city riding- esp with a performance clutch/spring
A clutch adjusted per the service manual will give good "friction zone" results, just pay extra attention to the clutch cable adjustment, and the gap at the lever
Mike
the earlier ramp used a shorter lever, so more effort in less space- this better allowed the "working area" of the clutch lever to be moved closer or further from the grip.
The ball/ramp is less than $20 in parts. I do not now if the earlier version will fit into the current trap door
typical assembly looks likes the below linked diagram, the inner ramp ( #17) attaches to the clutch cable with the arm, the longer the arm the more clutch lever travel/less effort
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....W/-SIDE-COVERS
Having had earlier models; a popular mod was the white brothers easy boy lite clutch kit, which is essentially what HD offers now. The earlier clutch could make for a sore hand in a full day of city riding- esp with a performance clutch/spring
A clutch adjusted per the service manual will give good "friction zone" results, just pay extra attention to the clutch cable adjustment, and the gap at the lever
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; May 29, 2012 at 11:05 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
I found the following when adjusting my clutch:
Loosen the cable all the way -
Loosen the lock nut and the center screw then when backing it out to lock it in:
For a mid-way turn back the adjuster out on the basket about 1/2 turn.
Closer to the grip 3/4 to one full turn.
Personally I always use 1/2 turn as it puts the friction zone just about half way out; gives you plenty of play area when needed and makes for very smooth take off or slow speed parking lot clutch feathering. When its too close to the grip it gets grabby (IMO). If that's your preference then the 3/4 to 1 full turn out will accomplish that.
Loosen the cable all the way -
Loosen the lock nut and the center screw then when backing it out to lock it in:
For a mid-way turn back the adjuster out on the basket about 1/2 turn.
Closer to the grip 3/4 to one full turn.
Personally I always use 1/2 turn as it puts the friction zone just about half way out; gives you plenty of play area when needed and makes for very smooth take off or slow speed parking lot clutch feathering. When its too close to the grip it gets grabby (IMO). If that's your preference then the 3/4 to 1 full turn out will accomplish that.
I found the following when adjusting my clutch:
Loosen the cable all the way -
Loosen the lock nut and the center screw then when backing it out to lock it in:
For a mid-way turn back the adjuster out on the basket about 1/2 turn.
Closer to the grip 3/4 to one full turn.
Personally I always use 1/2 turn as it puts the friction zone just about half way out; gives you plenty of play area when needed and makes for very smooth take off or slow speed parking lot clutch feathering. When its too close to the grip it gets grabby (IMO). If that's your preference then the 3/4 to 1 full turn out will accomplish that.
Loosen the cable all the way -
Loosen the lock nut and the center screw then when backing it out to lock it in:
For a mid-way turn back the adjuster out on the basket about 1/2 turn.
Closer to the grip 3/4 to one full turn.
Personally I always use 1/2 turn as it puts the friction zone just about half way out; gives you plenty of play area when needed and makes for very smooth take off or slow speed parking lot clutch feathering. When its too close to the grip it gets grabby (IMO). If that's your preference then the 3/4 to 1 full turn out will accomplish that.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
This is really quite simple. More freeplay will make the clutch engage closer to the grip. So to accomplish that, simply adjust the clutch (inside the cover) to the high side of the tolerance range, i.e., one full turn rather than 1/2 turn. If that alone does not accomplish what you're looking for then give the cable some extra freeplay. Disregard the 1/16 to 1/8 inch specifaication at the clutch lever and adjust the cable to provide the engagement where you want it. If your bike is anything like mine you'll end up with more than 1/8 inch freeplay at the lever.
In another thread on the same topic I proposed this method in more detail. I got a reply stating that my methods were about the stupidest way of adjustment conceivable. I asked the poster who stated that to provide me with a technical rational for his statement but never got one. The reason for no follow-up response is because there isn't one. My method is perfectly sound and will result in a clutch engagement to suit your preference.
In another thread on the same topic I proposed this method in more detail. I got a reply stating that my methods were about the stupidest way of adjustment conceivable. I asked the poster who stated that to provide me with a technical rational for his statement but never got one. The reason for no follow-up response is because there isn't one. My method is perfectly sound and will result in a clutch engagement to suit your preference.
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From: Port St. Lucie FL
