Clutch Lever Release........
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Garner, NC
Clutch Lever Release........
Ok, I know that there are a ton of topics on this......beleive I read them all and I am still confused. Here are the symptoms, if someone could help me with the exact procedure that I need to do.
I bought my '12 FLHTK 3 weeks ago with 5500 miles on it. Love the bike, but the clutch lever engages right at the end of travel (furthest away from the handle bars). I hate this and want to move the engagement point back closer to the bars. So should I be adjusting the clutch cable or under the primary cover? The dealership said that it was a quick easy adjustment but would need to bring my bike and let it sit for a few hours to cool down before they could do it. If it's quick and easy........I will do it. Just need the CORRECT procedure.
Thanks
Keith
I bought my '12 FLHTK 3 weeks ago with 5500 miles on it. Love the bike, but the clutch lever engages right at the end of travel (furthest away from the handle bars). I hate this and want to move the engagement point back closer to the bars. So should I be adjusting the clutch cable or under the primary cover? The dealership said that it was a quick easy adjustment but would need to bring my bike and let it sit for a few hours to cool down before they could do it. If it's quick and easy........I will do it. Just need the CORRECT procedure.
Thanks
Keith
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,981
Likes: 48
From: Northern Illinois
Hi Keith
Well, it's not that hard if you've got the tools and can handle a wrench.
I would suggest buying a Service Manual if you're planning on doing some of your own service work.
But, to answer your question, I would start by just adjusting the cable. The adjuster is in front of the Down Tubes about half way down. Slide the rubber boot off, loosen the lock nut, and adjust the cable so that there is about 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the Clutch lever at the Ferrule(where the Cable enters the clutch lever housing).
If that doesn't fix it, the procedure is a little more involved. Either do a search on YouTube, or like I said, get a Service Manual.
Good luck!
Well, it's not that hard if you've got the tools and can handle a wrench.
I would suggest buying a Service Manual if you're planning on doing some of your own service work.
But, to answer your question, I would start by just adjusting the cable. The adjuster is in front of the Down Tubes about half way down. Slide the rubber boot off, loosen the lock nut, and adjust the cable so that there is about 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the Clutch lever at the Ferrule(where the Cable enters the clutch lever housing).
If that doesn't fix it, the procedure is a little more involved. Either do a search on YouTube, or like I said, get a Service Manual.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Garner, NC
Hi Keith
Well, it's not that hard if you've got the tools and can handle a wrench.
I would suggest buying a Service Manual if you're planning on doing some of your own service work.
But, to answer your question, I would start by just adjusting the cable. The adjuster is in front of the Down Tubes about half way down. Slide the rubber boot off, loosen the lock nut, and adjust the cable so that there is about 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the Clutch lever at the Ferrule(where the Cable enters the clutch lever housing).
If that doesn't fix it, the procedure is a little more involved. Either do a search on YouTube, or like I said, get a Service Manual.
Good luck!
Well, it's not that hard if you've got the tools and can handle a wrench.
I would suggest buying a Service Manual if you're planning on doing some of your own service work.
But, to answer your question, I would start by just adjusting the cable. The adjuster is in front of the Down Tubes about half way down. Slide the rubber boot off, loosen the lock nut, and adjust the cable so that there is about 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the Clutch lever at the Ferrule(where the Cable enters the clutch lever housing).
If that doesn't fix it, the procedure is a little more involved. Either do a search on YouTube, or like I said, get a Service Manual.
Good luck!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Typically a clutch is adjusted in 2 steps.
You can start with loosening the cable at the adjuster but if the cable isn't taunt with an 1/8 inch play with the lever released, then you may need to open up the clutch inspection cover / derby cover on the primary and make a mechanical adjustment to the actual clutch engagement adjuster.
This is the right place to adjust the release / engagement position correctly. The two steps would begin by backing off the cable adjustment and start with a real loose cable in order to adjust the mechanical clutch engagement adjuster. It's loosened, backed off, and then tightened in until it makes light physical contact with the pushrod, then it's backed off typically 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Check your bike's specs. And be careful when you place the lock nut that you don't whack out the adjustment.
Then you bring up the cable adjuster until the slack is taken up to only allow about an 1/8" play gap at the lever. This should move the engage / disengage point at the lever and have it actuate at the half way point of the lever.
There's videos here in the video forum, and on you tube that can help.
You can start with loosening the cable at the adjuster but if the cable isn't taunt with an 1/8 inch play with the lever released, then you may need to open up the clutch inspection cover / derby cover on the primary and make a mechanical adjustment to the actual clutch engagement adjuster.
This is the right place to adjust the release / engagement position correctly. The two steps would begin by backing off the cable adjustment and start with a real loose cable in order to adjust the mechanical clutch engagement adjuster. It's loosened, backed off, and then tightened in until it makes light physical contact with the pushrod, then it's backed off typically 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Check your bike's specs. And be careful when you place the lock nut that you don't whack out the adjustment.
Then you bring up the cable adjuster until the slack is taken up to only allow about an 1/8" play gap at the lever. This should move the engage / disengage point at the lever and have it actuate at the half way point of the lever.
There's videos here in the video forum, and on you tube that can help.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 493
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Try this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw6da27b1w4
There are many more YouTube videos if you do not like this one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw6da27b1w4
There are many more YouTube videos if you do not like this one.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,033
Likes: 7
From: TEXAS
Typically a clutch is adjusted in 2 steps.
You can start with loosening the cable at the adjuster but if the cable isn't taunt with an 1/8 inch play with the lever released, then you may need to open up the clutch inspection cover / derby cover on the primary and make a mechanical adjustment to the actual clutch engagement adjuster.
This is the right place to adjust the release / engagement position correctly. The two steps would begin by backing off the cable adjustment and start with a real loose cable in order to adjust the mechanical clutch engagement adjuster. It's loosened, backed off, and then tightened in until it makes light physical contact with the pushrod, then it's backed off typically 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Check your bike's specs. And be careful when you place the lock nut that you don't whack out the adjustment.
Then you bring up the cable adjuster until the slack is taken up to only allow about an 1/8" play gap at the lever. This should move the engage / disengage point at the lever and have it actuate at the half way point of the lever.
There's videos here in the video forum, and on you tube that can help.
You can start with loosening the cable at the adjuster but if the cable isn't taunt with an 1/8 inch play with the lever released, then you may need to open up the clutch inspection cover / derby cover on the primary and make a mechanical adjustment to the actual clutch engagement adjuster.
This is the right place to adjust the release / engagement position correctly. The two steps would begin by backing off the cable adjustment and start with a real loose cable in order to adjust the mechanical clutch engagement adjuster. It's loosened, backed off, and then tightened in until it makes light physical contact with the pushrod, then it's backed off typically 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Check your bike's specs. And be careful when you place the lock nut that you don't whack out the adjustment.
Then you bring up the cable adjuster until the slack is taken up to only allow about an 1/8" play gap at the lever. This should move the engage / disengage point at the lever and have it actuate at the half way point of the lever.
There's videos here in the video forum, and on you tube that can help.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Garner, NC
So I adjusted the cable only. I got the clutch to the place where I like it, but there is too much freeplay in the lever. After changing gears, I have to push the lever with the back of my fingers to get it to go all the way forward like it is supposed to. So I am assuming that means that I actually need to adjust the clutch pack and then adjust the cable, correct?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,487
Likes: 156
From: boston
Kebo, When I bought my 2012 flhx, The clutch lever is exactly where you are right now. I brought it back because the clutch would start engaging about 1/4 inch off the grip and had about 3/8 play when full released. I had to push the lever forward with my fingers to get the lever all the way out. I brought it back and had them adjust it and had it just the way I liked it. grabed about 1/2 inch off grip, and little to no play on the top.
the next time I visited the dealership was for my 1000 mile. They dropped the bike off at my house when it was complete. When I went for a ride I noticed that they adjusted the clutch lever back to what it was like when I first bought the bike. It doesn't seem to be hurting it at all and I am getting used to the feel for the new position. I still don't really like the slop of the lever when the lever is at the top though.
the next time I visited the dealership was for my 1000 mile. They dropped the bike off at my house when it was complete. When I went for a ride I noticed that they adjusted the clutch lever back to what it was like when I first bought the bike. It doesn't seem to be hurting it at all and I am getting used to the feel for the new position. I still don't really like the slop of the lever when the lever is at the top though.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Garner, NC
The dealership will adjust it......but I have to either drop it off or wait half a day. The clutch has to be cool in order to make the adjustments properly. I am handy with a wrench and figured I would just do it myself. Not to mention save myself a few dollars. Adjustments are not covered under the warranty......so worst case it would cost me 1/2 hour labor.......$41 if I had them adjust it.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,981
Likes: 48
From: Northern Illinois
So I adjusted the cable only. I got the clutch to the place where I like it, but there is too much freeplay in the lever. After changing gears, I have to push the lever with the back of my fingers to get it to go all the way forward like it is supposed to. So I am assuming that means that I actually need to adjust the clutch pack and then adjust the cable, correct?
That way you know the Clutch is fully engaged. I can push the Lever forward after clutching also, totally normal.