front end wobble question
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Minnesota
front end wobble question
I have an 07 sg and over the winter I did quite a few mods. 18's front and back. Chrome front end with progressive monotubes and I put ohlin #3-3's. I run about 44psi in the rear and 42psi in the front tire. For some reason I have been getting a front end wobble at about 70 and up. It is mainly noticable in corners but I have felt it some going straight on windy days. Sounds odd but its there and it bothers me. Before I did all the mods last winter my bike was nice and handled really well as I previously had installed the glide pro kit. But this year is a different story. I also installed 12" pyo monkey bars. I have only messed around with tire pressures. I read somewhere that the rear suspension could possible be not meshing with the front suspension? I didn't add the lowering monotube kit, just the standard height kit. Anyone experience this? Also would it be ok to rule out the neck head bearing adjustment since the bike was fine before I changed all the stuff? Thanks
When you changed the height of the front of the bike it changed the angle of the fairing, and you could be experiencing a buffeting effect from wind underneath the fairing. I guess the question is, does it happen at a specific speed, does your body also feel the shimmy, or just the handle bars. It might not be wind or air turbulence at all but it was the first thing I thought of. It could also be uneven wear in the front tires, how many miles on the front?
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Minnesota
I put brand new rims and tires on the bike. 18's with low profile tires so the height shouldn't have changed much from what I understood. With the 16's having a bigger tire there overall diameters are really close. I have a couple thousand miles on this setup.
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These are the main contributors to your situation, go through all, one at a time, no particular order and verify or correct and then see how it handles, one thing at a time and test ride or you won't know what actually fixecd your problem, if you just run through it all at once.
Wheels-bearings/balance
Tires-condition/inflation
neck bearings-adjusted (tight side better)
motor mount/rear isolators- I would try Sta-bo at $100 dollars instead of one of the 3rd link type products.
Front suspension- sag, fluid level, and type
Fairing brackets- broken?
Personally I think it has to do with your front suspension, the progressive monotubes are a one size fits all suspension product, is it possible they fit you perfectly because you the "average" rider profile they were designed around? Regardles of brand or type, suspension need to be tuned to the individual, so if the product you're using has no adjustability, it can't be "tuned". And yes the closer you can synchronize front and rear suspension the better the whole ride will be.
Wheels-bearings/balance
Tires-condition/inflation
neck bearings-adjusted (tight side better)
motor mount/rear isolators- I would try Sta-bo at $100 dollars instead of one of the 3rd link type products.
Front suspension- sag, fluid level, and type
Fairing brackets- broken?
Personally I think it has to do with your front suspension, the progressive monotubes are a one size fits all suspension product, is it possible they fit you perfectly because you the "average" rider profile they were designed around? Regardles of brand or type, suspension need to be tuned to the individual, so if the product you're using has no adjustability, it can't be "tuned". And yes the closer you can synchronize front and rear suspension the better the whole ride will be.
[QUOTE=thenewrage;9906806]I put brand new rims and tires on the bike. 18's with low profile tires so the height shouldn't have changed much from what I understood. With the 16's having a bigger tire there overall diameters are really close. I have a couple thousand miles on this setup.[/QUOTE
what brand tires and how wide is your rear tires and your your rim?
because if its metzseller 60 series 160 on 3.5 wide wheels is bad combo ,use your stock rear wheel .im pretty sure it will go away. i learn it the hardway the timei swicth to low proflie. rear tire.. good luck
what brand tires and how wide is your rear tires and your your rim?
because if its metzseller 60 series 160 on 3.5 wide wheels is bad combo ,use your stock rear wheel .im pretty sure it will go away. i learn it the hardway the timei swicth to low proflie. rear tire.. good luck
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I have done the 18"s (18x3.5 on front with a 130/70 and a 18x4.25 on rear with a 130/70 if memory serves)on a 16" equipped bike in the past and didn't experience any sort of noticeable negative handling characteristic emerging. I added 2-3 Ohlins to my FLHX and didn't change the forks in any way at the time of the shock change, they already had SE heavy oil from the very beginning. I have never had what I would call a wobble. When the bike was stone stock and new when pushing the bike on a fast sweeper if there were road undulations I would get a feeling of being disjointed, like the front tire and rear tire were taking different paths. I addressed that issue. If I had to point at one thing that I would suspect if I were in your shoes, as long as everything else is sound, would be the handle bars. Twice the leverage and the same rubber mounting could easily set up as steering loading/unloading scenario in turns and when encountering excessive windloading on the fork mounted fairing.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Minnesota
Thanks for the good replies. I'll take one thing at a time as noted. I did quite a few things all at once so will see what happens. I'm thinking I'll ditch the monotubes and try something different
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: No. Nevada
yeah when I built my pro street I had thr front fork nut on the loose side and my test ride was a little scary, especially in the sweeps at high speed, went home and tightened up to get less swing and fixed the problem, so I would think to adjust the front fork nut.
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