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With a Touring bike what you are experiencing is quite common and while tires, suspension, and other chasis adjustments contribute, I'd venture to say the biggest influence is simply the nature of the beast with its rubber mounted drive train which includes the rear wheel.
that little dip causes a whole lot of stuff to happen, compression and rebound of the suspension, a momentary change in rack and trail...how you handle it- stiffening up now that you know it's there.
a front end may be settled by braking slightly- which puts more weight on the front wheel--- whether this is appropriate for the bike speed road surface traction etc is up you.
there is no harm in doing a front end fall-away test if you suspect worn bearings-- bearings are worn most by misadjusted pre load or lack of lube.
in most cases the bikes are capable of more than we the rider ask of it- trust the machine
Bike is a 2008 FLHTCU Ohlin 3-3's in the rear, Race tech springs 1.0's whitch are what race tech specs for my weight, and ricor intimidator dampener valves in the front.
All the things you mentioned contrubute, that dip in the pavement that started it suggests either the front and rear suspension are very different firm wise, or more likely the rear swingarm/engine dampers need firmed up with some Sta-Bo bushings. Then there is also the limitation of the machine, even set up perfect with all best components, there is a point where the 900 lb motorcyle loses its handling manners.
This wasn't the typical pre 09 frame hinge/wallow that the old frame was plagued with. The back end was planted and sure footed throughout. This was all front end. I do need to pull the front end and add about 1/4" preload to the front end, and also change the fork oil from 10wt to 5 wt amsoil. I'm probably a month away from getting around to doing it though. I'll do a fall away while I'm at it. The bearings are lubed well, but I haven't checked bearing preload so that could be it. Tire pressure was about 4 lb low 32 lb, I normally run at 36lb front, it has a very slow leak. Its been that low and lower many times and not went into head shake. This is actually the second time the bike has reacted this way and both times have been after suspension compression/rebound. The first time was under hard acceleration and hitting a good bump in the road. This time was under steady throttle.
This wasn't the typical pre 09 frame hinge/wallow that the old frame was plagued with. The back end was planted and sure footed throughout. This was all front end. I do need to pull the front end and add about 1/4" preload to the front end, and also change the fork oil from 10wt to 5 wt amsoil. I'm probably a month away from getting around to doing it though. I'll do a fall away while I'm at it. The bearings are lubed well, but I haven't checked bearing preload so that could be it. Tire pressure was about 4 lb low 32 lb, I normally run at 36lb front, it has a very slow leak. Its been that low and lower many times and not went into head shake. This is actually the second time the bike has reacted this way and both times have been after suspension compression/rebound. The first time was under hard acceleration and hitting a good bump in the road. This time was under steady throttle.
I think you'll take care of it when you correct those items, that 1/4" of sag does make it a little soft, so the front and rear are damping at much different rates, that can cause some undesireable handling like you experienced, even at 1 5/8" sag you may find the front a little soft if you generally prefer a firmer suspension and if you have the rear set up a little on the firm side. get the rear where you want it then try to tweak the front to match.
All great mechanical info above.To answer your question about on or off the gas etc...once you pick your line your throttle should be rolled open evenly, smoothly,and CONSTANTLY throughout the remainder of the turn. I am paraphrasing Keith Code. You mentioned this happening after compression and rebound...make sure there is always light rider input on the handle bars ...if you are tight on the bars and a rigid upper body you will make a wobble way worse. If you are doing this you are fighting the bike. As mentioned before trust the bike and let it do it's job, it really wants to do the right thing if we let it However, this "relaxing" takes practice because when the pucker factor starts relaxation is the first thing to go!
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