Bagger wobble exposed!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: poway
My comprehension is too good. I to read too much into what you are saying.. Disillusioned may not be the best choice of word.. Misinformed would be better..I replaced the rubber bushings in my 07 FLHTC at 50K.. They still looked good when they came out.. The front mounts will die at 20K if they are allowed to soak in motor oil from changing oil filters.. I've not seen any rear rubbers come apart other than some older glidepros.. Stock ones will shed some rubber where they are compressed up against the outer bracket but that is a casting issue as that section should be clear of rubber.
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From: poway
The main issue is the forks, spring them for your weight and fit better valve technology like the Ricor Intiminators and it cures the weave. Unfortunately most Harley riders are oblivious to such things as proper suspension set up, hence they fit a band aid to cover up the real problem, sure stiffening up the swing arm bushings help but the spongy front end is the main culprit.
Another anecdotal point is that I have a buddy that has an 07 FLHTCU, he runs the cheapest tires available and has done nothing to suspension. The bike is completely stable in the corners providing you don't hit to big of a bump. Suspension seriously bottoms.. Still it does not wobble.
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From: poway
As far as handling goes, it is almost night and day difference on my 07 FLHTC.. I have a set on a 02 FLHRC and the difference is harder to tell.. I have a couple locations where there are 60-90 MPH turns that have big ripples in them. They are really good for upsetting the bikes and getting them to dance. The only other stabilizers I've tried are the Glidepro, a Progressive clones and spacing the stock rubbers out.. The nuts worked the best.. I've have manged to get the 07 FLHTC to dance a little but it's mainly the front part of the bike. This bike has a 140/70-18 Venom (2010 street-glide front wheel) on it that has about 14K on it and it is about worn out. You can feel a little instability when you run the tire to the edge..
Something I also noticed on mine (a 2007 arm) was about a 1 or 1.5mm gap at each side of the end of the swing arm where the bushes or bearings fit into it. I would have thought that should be shimmed too.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Scotland
I agree about the front springs being too soft but disagree about everything else. For one, I don't care for Ricors.. Don't like the idea of a floating valve controlling damping.. It can make tire contact with the ground iffy under certain conditions.. Also the 06 up faring-ed baggers have a form of emulator that is pretty good.. Not as good as the Racetech but still light-years ahead of the stock older Showa forks which only have single speed orifice damping.. The 07 FLHTC I did my testing on had about 6 different configurations of springs, sag, emulators and oil. Also had 4 different shocks on the rear, heavy and light Progressive 440s, Works shocks, and Ohlins. Bike would handle fine with certain tires but I had trouble touring with Avon Cobras, They only last me about 4500 miles..
Another anecdotal point is that I have a buddy that has an 07 FLHTCU, he runs the cheapest tires available and has done nothing to suspension. The bike is completely stable in the corners providing you don't hit to big of a bump. Suspension seriously bottoms.. Still it does not wobble.
Another anecdotal point is that I have a buddy that has an 07 FLHTCU, he runs the cheapest tires available and has done nothing to suspension. The bike is completely stable in the corners providing you don't hit to big of a bump. Suspension seriously bottoms.. Still it does not wobble.
Banned
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From: LA
I have no idea if the maker considered it. It looks like the swing arm could, in theory move on them.
There's a short length of Delrin sticking out both sides ... I cannot remember what they say to set it at ... so what's holding the swing arm in place on it except for friction?
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From: poway
I could understand that but I have the STA-B0 replacement.
I have no idea if the maker considered it. It looks like the swing arm could, in theory move on them.
There's a short length of Delrin sticking out both sides ... I cannot remember what they say to set it at ... so what's holding the swing arm in place on it except for friction?
I have no idea if the maker considered it. It looks like the swing arm could, in theory move on them.
There's a short length of Delrin sticking out both sides ... I cannot remember what they say to set it at ... so what's holding the swing arm in place on it except for friction?
On the Stabo system, you remove the swingarm bracket and push the stabo bushing into the rubber isolator. You then replace swingarm bracket. The bracket compresses the rubber islolator and the stabo bushing.. If you look at the drawing I show for the stabo you can see that it is inside the isolator and an additional support.. The swingarm does not move on the stabo bushing. The swingarm is inside the isolator and has a sperical bearing with spacer for positioning and movement (not shown). What holds the drive train and swingarm in place is a lip on the rubber isolator extending into the swingarm bracket. It is long enough that the oscillator bushing end cannot fall out of the hole..
Here is a picture of a stock 02 to 08 drive train to frame connection. One thing to note is the blue stuff in middle is the transmission and swingarm together with bearings to allow the swing arm to do it's thing. For the purpose of looking at the isolators and frame connection they are show as one block.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: poway
I'd question the guys at Stabo but suspect it is OK as long as side play is controlled by the bushing where it rides up against the tranny.. The additional width will increase the preload on the rubber isolator and outer Stabo bushing which should help some with stability.. Might vibrate a little more..