... Not on this one, there's is a gap of about 1 mm on both sides between the swing arm and the bushing plate where the Sta-Bo sticks out.

That's where I was thinking it should be shimmed.

I'll take a picture once it's all assembled again.

I had similar before with another make of bike and lucked out just to find a big washer that fitted. Made a big different. Trouble is this time round I'd need one with a hole the same as the inside diameter of the swing arm.

Found this which clearly shows the FXR cross brace.

 

Thanks for the reply.. Didn't realize the sta-bo stuff was that loose on the tolerances but then it's more than likely HD ain't helping much.. I've done something similar to the Sta-Bo thing but using bearing bronze and cut all the pieces to proper length.. I assumed Sta-Bo did the same thing.

So the foot peg brackets are part of the cross brace. Good pic.. The only stuff I've seen up close is some after market frame setups..

 

Yes, I remembered and noticed that.

The way they wrap around rather than are just welded onto the sides like the recent Dynas suggest it is structural to me ... stopping the tube flex in either direction.

Of course, that is all just theory but why else would they do it?

 

What speeds does wobble typically occur at? I have never experienced it, but 99.9% of my riding is under 85, and on twisties under 70. Am I lucky or are guys turning hard at high speeds?

 

Ron, if you go back to my post #1 you will see that I comment that not everyone experiences it. While the subject gets plenty of air time on forums like HDF, the infamous wobble is not consistent or predictable. If you haven't experienced it you may never do so on your current bike. That may be down to your riding style, or that your bike is tighter than some others.

Should you change bikes in the future, there is a possibility that new bike may wobble. Be assured you will know it when you come across it, but in the meantime ride on and enjoy!

 

I suspect that it was made one piece, mainly for ease of fabrication as it holds the foot pegs and side stand. Welding the structure, as an assembly, would ease manufacturing.

Not sure what you mean bu "either direction" Is it a structure for shear movement of the 2 frame tubes, together and apart movement, or just something to hold the foot-pegs and side stand?

 

I don't know but it's got to add something apart from just weight.

So, are we anywhere near knowing what the "ideal" preload on these parts might be?

The pivot/bush assembly pushed the frame tubes apart some. I presume too much and it transfers more vibrations; too little and you get more wobble?

 

Hey bwoltz, any further update on how this device is working out?

 

These things are doing real well... I wanted to wait til I had a bit more data. I had a minor issue.. I've got maybe 5K on a 02 road king classic and these nuts made the thing handle even better when stuffing the bike into a corner.. I've tried and e3 on the front and tried a Bridgestone excedra and Michelin CII in the back.. The bike is set up high..Proper sag with emulators, 1.0kg/mm RT springs in the front and Ohlins configured from the factory in the back. Streetglide wheels. This bike has always handled well but add the nuts has mad it stabler. Alignment has never been checked, it is still running the original front and rear mounts..

The EGC was doing good bit it was where I has the slight issue. It has emulators, progressive springs, sag set at 28%. Street glide wheels. 18 in the front. Works shocks with ARS in the back.

The tires were almost worn out and found that the front wheel bearings were shot.. The tires were 140x18 venum X on the front and CII 150x16 on the rear.. When I noticed the front wheel bearings were gone, I replaced them first and took it for a ride (100 mile of mostly mountains) .. Didn't notice any difference in handling.. I swapped the front to a American Elite and rode 100 miles.. Better.. So I swapped the rear.. Still better.. Better was really handling in the corners.. The elite tire profile has bit of a V to them and I wanted to see what the changes did.. With the Elites the tires steer very neutral when laid over.. Like them a bunch.. Anyway the bike was feeling great except that I get a little tire bounce on choppy roads and wanted to correct it.. The emulators are running 2 turn gold springs, with 4 holes in the plate. I was talked into the 4 hole deal and wanted to go back to 2.. I pulled the fork tubes off and changed the emulator settings, refilled with fresh oil and reassembled.. I added about 1/12th turn on the steering bearings.. The test ride showed a bit of a wobble.. ... At first I was thinking I screwed up the emulators but finally figured it was the preload steering bearings.. Backed them off and the wobble went away..

I little long winded but it's is worth seeing that there are some many factors that can cause bat-winged bagger to dance..

As far as the nuts goes, you can get em by contacting these guys..

http://www.sykeperformance.com/

Email the info.

They still only have them for 02 to 08 bikes.. I've been hassling them about getting the stuff up on their web site bit it is a small 2 person shop and the main guy, while on vacation managed, to get some sort skin of infection that put him in the hospital for a few days.. He has just got out last Friday..

 

Put on the true track the other day not because I had the wobble but because I don't ever want to experience it. Bike rode well prior but after it was installed my seat of the pants test seemed to really tighten up the ride - so I am happy with the purchase. Install was straight forward - no major issues.