The adjustment is made at the allen head. Not the hex head. Thats just the locking nut. Take a picture of what you are adjusting at the primary side.

 

The search field here is your friend. it helped me to be able to adjust my clutch once the bike is cold in less than 15 minutes and it's perfect every time!!!

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/trans...-easy-way.html

I would check this out, it has the easy way and a link to how to do it by the book.

 

OK,

Lets start from scratch. Do it this way:

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ˝” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ˝ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ž turn. ˝ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good (actually on your '09, it's an "O" ring, they usually last the life of the motor). Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris
Denver, CO


www.youtube.com/conedown

 

level or on jiffy stand, makes little difference.

so here's the variables:

cable slack- you know how to adjust that--- and we do that last

ball and ramp mechanism- this is under the "trap door" tranny end cover. this is how the pulling motion of the cable is transfered to a pushing motion of the clutch rod.

and the "clutch adjust" with the allen screw which is adjusting how far the clutch rod pushes.

when you loosen everything up, the ***** can fall out of position on the ramp, the cable is not loosened all the way, just slackened.

if you follow the instructions, after adjusting the clutch adjuster screw -take care to note:

"7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set
ball and ramp release mechanism."

at this point you re-adjust the cable.

Mike

 

In a massive dose of brain fade, this happened to me this morning. I said to myself what if I turned the adjusting rod all the way in. Well it turns out that it caused the 3 ***** to fall out of their location in the clutch ramp assembly (sic). Luckily I didn't have to remove the exhaust to remove the cover and fix it. I did have to drain the tranny and refill with red line shockproof $16.00 and buy a set of ring clip pliers $40.00 for my tool box. Three hours later my 10 minute clutch adjustment was done. Great day to do it too, hot, hazy and humid and not a beer in sight.

This might be the problem, if so it might be time to buy a manual.

Let us know what it was.

 

Yeah, I think this is what I've got. I followed all the instructions to a "T" and no luck. I'm trailering this SOB to the shop first thing tomorrow morning. I've had two techs tell me adjusting this clutch is difficult. WTF was I thinking !!

Thanks for all the help guys. I uploaded some photos. This is supposed to be a no-brainer. Apparently an I/O error. Idiot Operator.

Regards,
Kenneth

 

or you can fix your self... this is something you can do.

rolling the tires up on a 2x4, then leaning the bike on the jiffy stand will keep almost all the fluid in the tranny if the end cover has to come off.

( make sure bike is stable)

you may have to remove part of the exhaust.

or you can trailer it, and it'll be costly.

btw the revised torque spec for the tranny end cover bolts is 25 ft lbs

Mike

 

Be sure to let us know what they tell you, good luck.

 

Hey Guys, I really appreciate all the help I got from you all. I was at the HD shop first thing this morning and after taking a lot of good spirited ribbing my HD Tech kid said it was the throw out bearing. He said it was ready to go anyway which is why he always has so much trouble adjusting my frickin clutch.

LMAO They said it would be $800.00 which included the $500.00 dumbass surcharge LOL AND towing. Altogether, shouldn't cost me more than $300.00. I laughed and said I should have bought a trailer instead of more tools.

NEXT time I know what to do and how to do it. MOST of all I know what not to do.

I'll get some photos up and my profile built. I'll be a regular so I'll see you soon.

Anybody here from Dallas?

Regards,
Kenneth

 

there is no "throw out bearing" on a Harley---( there is on a car)

are you sure the tech used those words?

Mike