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I voted no problem but just like some of the other problems I headed off and fixed before they bit me on the ***, I came up with a fix. So, I want a fix for it whether a cable or whatever. Let's get our collective brains together and come up with a cable fix that's not going to require a line of credit.
Yep, it's hit me twice. Warm engine but not hot, stopped for a 5 min break and bike would not go above 2000 rpm when re-started. Both times it reset in about 15 min. Last time recorded 8 DTC's, dealer looking at it this week.
I gobbed a bunch of the proper dialectric grease into the connector on the throttle body yesterday. Hope that cures mine.
That's what I did also the ecm connector under the seat. It's a pretty big deal if you're in Bum Fk Egypt and it happens and then you always wonder about the next time you shut it off too.
The problem has stuck me while @ 85 mph in the left lane in full traffic with no where to pull off on the left, I checked my right rear view mirror and saw a transfer truck grill in close, all I could do is throw up my arm indicating my direction and take it.
The problem is with the pins fretting, the pins coating and size can't take the vibration and began to scar the outer surface to the point that the computer loses the 5 volt signal and when this happens the check engine light comes on and we go to high idle.
Some state that Dielectric grease is the cure but if you think about it, your connector is or maybe scared and your putting a non-conductive moisture sealant goo in between your connector pins and the matting surface. You have not fixed the origional problem until you change out the pins.
There has to be a better type connector to use in this heavy vibration proned area.
[/quote]There has to be a better type connector to use in this heavy vibration proned area.[/quote] Cannon aircraft connectors but I would'nt hold yer breath waitin for the moco to use them
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