I've searched for information pertaining to the chassis alignment on this website and several others. I couldn't find any details pertaining to how to adjust the bike if it is out of alignment.

I was installing the new Touring Link from Progressive and found that the link wouldn't bolt right on so I check the alignment as explained by Glide Pro. It is a tad out but couldn't find information in the service manual as to checking or adjusting.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Am I the first to have an issue with alignment?

Only 11000 miles, rear tire replaced once by HD, never down, no problems except a little wobble at speed, in a corner. That was the reason I purchased the Touring Link to start with.

Anybody?

 

The 09+ frames cant be alig like the bikes on the Glide Pro sight. I did the full glide pro set up and talked to them about setting alignment, cant be done. If you look at your front engine mount (solid joint on above the front cyl). that is a solid link, you could get a 08- style hemi joint and try and move the engine a little to correct alignment but not sure that will do the trick. My wobble was cured by the glide pro set up along with switching to a 16 in rear wheel to go with my 21 front (I had a 18 rear that I think contributed to the wobble) Also set the preload on the front forks a little higher. Not sure your going to get the alignment your looking for as the new frames dont have the adj. the older bikes had. I was close and glide pro said that was the best I was going to get (using the laser levels per their website video)

 

I'll be the first one to exhibit my lack of knowledge regarding "alignment" according to the manual that I have ( 2009 FLHTCU ) in a pdf format. I cannot specifically find the alignment procedure. Actually it doesn't address the procedure at all. However in the old days we would use the "string method" ( if your front and rear tire were the same size ). You would pull a string across the sidewall of the rear tire and run it up alongside / past the front tire and adjust the rear axle until the string was parallel to both wheels. Not very high tech but it seemed to work well. There is also this procedure ... ... and this is the same setup but a little easier to see ... . Hope this helps.

 

My son's 11 RGU shop manual also has no alignment procedure included. If it gets to be a problem, I suspect some shade tree engineer will stretch the holes where the engine connects to the engine mount and create some side to side movement between the engine and the mount. Then, as stated above, changing the top fixed length link to an adjustable one will complete placing some adjustability back into the newer machines. I can only assume that the factory believes that the new frames are jigged pretty accurately when fabricated and no alignment beyond that will ever be necessary.

 

When I changed my rear tire last month , I used a method which works for me anyway.
I have a couple lengths of 3/4" metal conduit for wiring.
With the bike up verticle , I used a motorcycle jack , just high enough to stay up straight , I bungeed the conduits to either side of the rear tire .
The conduits need to be long enough to reach the front bulge of the front tire on each side.
The conduit also needs to reach the rear tire rear bulge on each side.
The rear tire being wider than the front actually makes this a bit easier.
I had marked the adjusters before I had the tire mounted so as to be pretty close on the reinstall.
I mounted the rear tire , set the belt adjustment (Harley 10 lb gauge) and torqued the axle nut.
Measure the clearance between the front and rear bulge of the front tire to the conduit on each side.
The bike can be slightly crooked , so the front tire offset may be 1/4" different from side to side.
If you have , lets say left side 1/4" and 1/4" and right side 1/2" and 1/2" the rear wheel is running true.
The rear tire may not trac perfectly in the same plane , but the alignment of each are in the same thrust angle for straight.
Futz with the cam adjuters until you have it right , set the belt tension and torque the axle nut each time.
When you really think you're done , check the belt tension again , and with the bike at static height make sure the tension is correct.
I like to set my belt towards the looser end of the spec , as it seems to hold nearly the same till the next tire change , and is less likely to cause premature bearing failure and dynamic load variances on long left hand turns at higher speeds.
It really is worth getting it right , yeah it's a pain , but worth it.
Mick

 

mick,

i don't follow you. the cam adjusters are not independent of each other. move the one on the left, and the one on the right moves as well. so theoretically, by 'futzing' with the cam adjusters, all you're doing is loosening/tightening the drive belt.

what am i missing?

 

I spoke with Progressive before posting this thread and the tech told me that there is an adjustment and it is in your service manual. I told him that it wasn't in my service manual and I couldn't find any adjustment. So, he says take it to your dealer or local shop because there is an adjustment and procedure in the manual.

Does Progressive must have information the rest of us don't and doesn't want to share?
Touring Link... may be a bust.

 

Thanks for the information on the rear wheel alignment. I've seen these videos before and they were helpful. With the Touring Link, Progressive is looking at the chassis alignment which aligns the trans/engine/and wheels as I understand it from the Glide Pro videos.

 

If the right side cam fit the axle with no play, it would be very difficult to separate from the axle when tire change time comes along. There is a little play which allows the cams to be at very slightly different angles. When adjusting the axle/left cam from loose to tight, the right cam will lag slightly behind. When adjusting the axle the other way, from too tight to correct, the right cam will stay on the tighter side as it lags behind in that direction. I have used this play to help get the belt to run more closely to center of the pulley.

This doesn't change the situation regarding the 09 and newer either having no chassis alignment capability or it is a factory secret as to how it is done.