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I recently changed my stock header pipe on my 2012 Roadking to a Fuel Moto header pipe. I noticed when I took my stock pipe off the front cylinder pipe nuts were not tight and I just got my bike back from its 1000 mile dealer service. I just changed to the Fuel Moto pipe and torqued to 130 inch pounds and after 2 50 mile trips it was probably down to 100 inch pounds both times I checked it. Anyone ever run into this? Is there a fix for this? Thank you for your time.
Its normal for it to back off after the first 50 miles or so when you change the headers. Just check it every once and a while. It will stay put when it is ready...
I recently changed my stock header pipe on my 2012 Roadking to a Fuel Moto header pipe. I noticed when I took my stock pipe off the front cylinder pipe nuts were not tight and I just got my bike back from its 1000 mile dealer service. I just changed to the Fuel Moto pipe and torqued to 130 inch pounds and after 2 50 mile trips it was probably down to 100 inch pounds both times I checked it. Anyone ever run into this? Is there a fix for this? Thank you for your time.
They are not suppose to be really tight.
Even if properly torqued the first time through, they could still be tightened further but that's usually not good for the gasket seal.
Yep it's normal.... I changed the pipes out on my street glide, checked and re torqued them several times and checked them before we left for a 3000 mile round trip and ended up loosing one of the front ones on a 400 mile stretch so I ended up double nutting them for the rest of the trip. Just keep checking them every once in a while.
Just installed mine and don't have any miles on yet, but 100-120 inlbs should be good... you don't want to crush the gasket(s). Its good to check the torque every once in a while after a fresh install, but you're a little better off to shoot for the middle of the range rather than the high or low end.
You did follow the recommended 5-minutes at idle then allow to fully cool off, 3 or 4 times then recheck torques before riding, right? That allows things to expand and contract a few times and get properly seated before they have to take the full pressure of a robust ride.
I'm no expert and others here have more practical experience... I yield the floor to the wrench on my left.
I was fighting this issue on my 06 when I first got it. I could tell when they got loose because I would start to have decel popping. The cure is to replace the nuts with distorted thread lock nuts and your problem will be permantly solved. Got mine from a Fastenal store, 4 for a buck and change. You can go high end with 12 point aircraft nuts and things like that but the ones I put on cured it. There are a lot of posts on this topic if you do a search.
Your nuts probably aren't coming loose but rather the soft gasket is more likely compressing after heat cycling. The OEM is a distorted thread type flanged lock nut, I recommend throwing them away after they have been removed. Always start the exhaust job with new nuts and clean the studs with a wire brush. I use a "torque to seal" technique, if necessary. Torque to spec in the procedure, run the bike and check for leaks. If there is a leak, tighten both upper and lower flange nuts 1/8 turn at a time until the leak stops. No need to routinely re-torque exhaust flange nuts unless you develop a leak. The expansion and contraction of heat cycling will always make them a little loose, you could keep tightening until you hit metal on metal and squeeze the gasket into the exhaust port. Hanging the exhaust properly is a rather delicate procedure, gradually tighten all fasteners in sequence, all of the fasteners work together to secure the system, not just the flange nuts.
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