Starting with a 103 you have a decent number of cam choices that will increase performance but not impose a big hit on low-end torque. Among these are the SE255, Andrews 48H, and Wood 222. The 255 is a great cam for the 96" motors but in the 103 CCP hits around 203psi, and that's about as high as you should go. With ACR you shouldn't have any problems with cranking, but a 103/255 combo is a real torque monster that will also increase peak-HP some but not as much as some other cams.

If you want to shift the torque curve a bit to the right of the chart, the Andrews 48H will do well, as well as the new Wood 222. I've seen charts of all three 103 combos and the torque curves look very flat just the way many of us like it, applying the power right now where you are riding with minimal downshifting to get to the power band.

The 255 cams can be purchased for a song if you look around. These are stock in a CVO and some of those owners want to mod their engines with higher compression, head work, etc. Going >10:1 dictates another cam choice, so you can usually see perfectly good CVO pulls on Ebay at any given time for very good prices. I bought mine for $110 shipped before the 255's became popular and they were going for around $150 the last time I looked. DIY reusing the stock pushrods and you can have a very nice performance upgrade for very little money ($250-300).

All that said and as much as I like the 255 in my 96" motor, if I had a 103 I would probably opt for the Wood 222 from Fuel Moto. That in combo with an AC, Power Vision or PCV, and a free-flowing exhaust would do the job very well for me. Buy all of it as a Power Package and get a nice discount.

 

I did have everything with the 255s originally. Still had heat and some pinging. Talked to Jamie at FM and he suggested a cam change to the TW222 and yes the difference in cams was significant. I don't have a before or after dyno sheet just seat of the pants dyno, and you could definitely feel the difference. Best of all, right seat heat considerably less, no more ping and no hot start problems.

 

Not needed and certainly not recommended on late model engines. The crank runout allowances on newer HDs is too high to run gear drives. For a good explanation on this subject look at the S&S site where they have a great video on camshaft swaps. During the 57 minute video the rationale for not going with gear drives will make it clear why its not needed.

 

You will be a happy man. If you have not already done so, you will want to get your stock pipe de-catted, or better yet replaced, to make it all breath better and run cooler on the right side, not to mention how much better it will sound. Noticeable differences.

 

I have a 2012 FLHTK Limited and love the upgrades. I have 254e cam, nightsticks, stock head pipe, SE AC and download. It pulls as hard as my buddy's 103 with 255's headers and TTS tune. He gets me out of the hole for a second, then I pull him. The 254e cam pulls hard down low and keeps pulling!

 

BTW: It dynoed at 81.14 horsepower and 92.53 TQ on Bennetts dynojet in Signal Hill CA.

254e cam, SE AC, slip on Nightsticks, (stock header) with 4 addl disks and dealer download stage 1

 

2012 Street Glide, 103 Harley tuner , S/E breather ,fullsac 2" recore, S/E 255 cams, left the cams to the last , but made the biggest difference , love it great power, Harley warranty approved, ROCK & ROLL BABY !!

 

2012 FLHX----V&H Tru-Duals & Monster Ovals, SE Ventilator, SE Pro 103 Performance Upgrade kit #27544-10A, PC V. Dynoed in @ 94hp & 105tq

In Dec. I am sending my heads to S&S for the CNC porting service. I hope to get 12-15 hp gain and same in tq.