Miles on your 107" big bore kits.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
Might as well go with the Timkin bearing while youre in there. I think the same way, strength, integrity and longevity. I spoke with my builder and he was explaining about crank flexation. The cranks will always scissor, the key is when they scissor, they need to return and the problem with pinned cranks is someday they dont return and that where the run-out screws everything up. The point of mentioning that was he says you dont need the timkin if you have a welded crank, but for less than $500 in P&L you would have a better sense of bulletproof.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 166
Likes: 2
From: Pa
On my 2009 Classic, I am chasing an annoying vibration in the 2500 to 3000 rpm range which I am now convinced is comming from the crank. So, as a winter project, I intend to split the case and have the crank shipped to Revolution for a full service (plug, weld, true and balance...).
Naturally, while I am there....
might as well put it back together with a few goodies... As I am mostly a long distance rider and comfort/reliability is my first concern, I thought the Revolution 107 kit with its new (not re-bored) cylinders were the best choice out there. I like the idea of plated cylinders for better heat control...darn, all other motorcycle mfrgs have gone to that...the MoCo is probably one of the last ones still sleeving cylinders...
Thinking of simple build, TW555 cam, stock heads. With the welded and balance crank, this should yeald a pretty good long distance set-up I think...
Any thoughts? And I too am wondering about long term reliability of those juggs....
Naturally, while I am there....
might as well put it back together with a few goodies... As I am mostly a long distance rider and comfort/reliability is my first concern, I thought the Revolution 107 kit with its new (not re-bored) cylinders were the best choice out there. I like the idea of plated cylinders for better heat control...darn, all other motorcycle mfrgs have gone to that...the MoCo is probably one of the last ones still sleeving cylinders...Thinking of simple build, TW555 cam, stock heads. With the welded and balance crank, this should yeald a pretty good long distance set-up I think...
Any thoughts? And I too am wondering about long term reliability of those juggs....
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 6
From: Spokane, WA.
107 builds :
Heads for that build, what is the best way to go?
Will be thinking 107 build in the future.
Would do Timkin and have crank trued, balanced, and welded.
Or, Maybe just toss a SE110 in the bike with some cams and be done?
Heads for that build, what is the best way to go?
Will be thinking 107 build in the future.
Would do Timkin and have crank trued, balanced, and welded.
Or, Maybe just toss a SE110 in the bike with some cams and be done?
Last edited by mgmmgm; Sep 29, 2012 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Not a typist
Novice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Montreal
I did an upgrade on 88" two and half years ago using Rev Performance kit. Although the 98" kit used has a different piston pin setting, the cylinder bore diameter is the same as the 107 so the durability should be very similar. Did an oil change to his bike last week, so just for reference we did a leak-down test. With 31,000 mi it had less than 4% leak-down, which is better than 85% of the new bikes coming off the showroom.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 166
Likes: 2
From: Pa
It's not my bike so I can't say for sure, but he has never complained about it running hot.
On my 2009 Classic, I am chasing an annoying vibration in the 2500 to 3000 rpm range which I am now convinced is comming from the crank. So, as a winter project, I intend to split the case and have the crank shipped to Revolution for a full service (plug, weld, true and balance...).
On my 2009 Classic, I am chasing an annoying vibration in the 2500 to 3000 rpm range which I am now convinced is comming from the crank. So, as a winter project, I intend to split the case and have the crank shipped to Revolution for a full service (plug, weld, true and balance...).
Naturally, while I am there.... might as well put it back together with a few goodies... As I am mostly a long distance rider and comfort/reliability is my first concern, I thought the Revolution 107 kit with its new (not re-bored) cylinders were the best choice out there. I like the idea of plated cylinders for better heat control...darn, all other motorcycle mfrgs have gone to that...the MoCo is probably one of the last ones still sleeving cylinders...
Thinking of simple build, TW555 cam, stock heads. With the welded and balance crank, this should yeald a pretty good long distance set-up I think...
Any thoughts? And I too am wondering about long term reliability of those juggs....
Naturally, while I am there....
might as well put it back together with a few goodies... As I am mostly a long distance rider and comfort/reliability is my first concern, I thought the Revolution 107 kit with its new (not re-bored) cylinders were the best choice out there. I like the idea of plated cylinders for better heat control...darn, all other motorcycle mfrgs have gone to that...the MoCo is probably one of the last ones still sleeving cylinders...Thinking of simple build, TW555 cam, stock heads. With the welded and balance crank, this should yeald a pretty good long distance set-up I think...
Any thoughts? And I too am wondering about long term reliability of those juggs....
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 975
Likes: 8
From: Houston
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Bronx
Dam I'm doing 106" S&S build just in parts I'm at $4,700 and I still have to have the heads machined for the acr's, valves and ported, timken bearing sleeve installed and then send the new S&S cyclinders and heads for the diamond cut and have the heads re-powder coated to match cyclinders I'm hoping this engine runs really well LOL