Has anyone done the basic PV autotune yet? How did it work for you? Did it make your tune better? Thanks.

 

Not sure what you mean by basic PV auto tune, could you be a little more specific?
There is a "basic" mode for the program.

 

331 pages of help Here

 

Specific info about PV autotune here: http://blogs.dynojet.com/index.php/2...now-a-reality/

Now - I'm also interested in hearing about the experience of anyone that's used this method.

 

There is a Basic and Pro tuning procedure, one using the stock narrow-band O2 sensors (Basic) and the other with wide-band O2 sensors (Pro, using the optional AT-100 kit). You can tune a bike either way, the difference being that the latter provides a more straightforward approach. Check out the latter pages of the PV thread already linked for more info, and don't hestitate to ask questions there. If anyone wants some more detailed answers I'll try to help, but I won't belabor going into too much detail now. Be advised that the WB sensors are 18mm and the stock sensors on newer bikes are 12mm, so to use the Pro procedure with those bikes you'll need to either weld 18mm bungs on your existing pipes or buy pipes already so equipped.

I've been tuning with the Pro procedure for over 18 months now, using the PV from Fuel Moto and my old Autotune kit (AT-100) I was using with the PCV. The process does work, and you can self-tune your bike with or without a computer, the latter method using only the PV unit that can be either attached temporarily for that purpose or connected more permanently to the handlebars. The display unit also serves as a means of monitoring useful info from the ECM and other calculated data--e.g., engine temperature (FCHT), throttle position, MAP, instant gas mileage, average gas mileage, fuel used, Lambda (AFR, both cylinders), and many other parameters. Some are useful in doing engine diagnostics, too. You can also retrieve ECM trouble codes quickly from the unit.

Most PV owners use the Basic method, and there is quite a bit of feedback about that on the PV sticky thread linked earlier. One user (JustDennis) even wrote a PDF tutorial on the procedure.

 

I've used it by just reloading the tune and letting it adjust where it needs it.
I've also adjusted the tune with a tank of 87 octane and saved that as a separate tune for times you want or need to run a lower octane fuel. Neat stuff

 

So using the at100 kit. Does the PV need to always be on the bike?

 

Just while you're datalogging with the auto-tune. If you're happy with the tune, you can save it to the ECM and then disconnect the PV until you need it again.

I personally didn't like the look of having the PV mounted anywhere so I ran it into the left saddlebag on my UL and leave it hooked up in there.

 

I've been playing with the "Basic" auto tuning and the bike is definately running better. As far as I'm concerned, it's still a complicated process, although tuning the VE tables is much easier with autotune. But that's apparently ALL it will autotune, you still need to do a data log the old way in order to tweak spark tables and such.

During tuning runs I mount mine to a RAM ball that I already have in place for my GPS. I leave the cable on the bike (tucked up under the tank console and into the fairing).

One very cool feature with the upgraded firmware is "Quick Tune", which allows you to make changes, to the timing for instance (either low-range, mid-range, upper-range or global), very easily.