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Hayden chain tensioner

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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #61  
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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
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Originally Posted by d-roadglidr
Got mine installed and could tell an immediate difference going down the road. Much smoother, especially in throttle transitions. No more herky jerky. Seems to shift a little smoother as well. As far as I'm concerned it was money well spent.




That's the first time I've ever heard that spec. You got a link for more information?
Do a search with:
polyamide bearing cage EP additives TAN (total acid number) and you will read the same information for hours

skf peek vs polyamide ep additive

ntn polyamide ep additive (ntn-snr French paper)

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/p...aincatalogue=1

http://www.google.ch/url?sa=t&rct=j&...yea2cw&cad=rja

INA; ***_Bearings; SKF; NTN have published individual specifications pointing to the same conclusion.
*** stand for Fox Alpha Golf Bearing company, not a person.

Here you have the chemical resistance of plastic materials to chemicals: look for Nylon or Type 6
http://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical...nce_chart.html

http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polyamide-Nylon-6,-6.html

http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...H1ZZYA&cad=rja

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon#H...nd_degradation

I did this search for my work and found that radiation damage applied to plastics (called reticulation => material becomes brittle like a soda cracker) also applies to plastic bearing cages when exposed to heat and acidity for long periods.

Happy reading
 

Last edited by Expat1; Nov 30, 2012 at 11:42 AM. Reason: What's wrong with F A G here? http://www.srg-bearings.com/index.php
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #62  
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OP here.
Well, I have the cover off and the chain seems tight to me, I can only get 1/4" movement and on older bikes it was 1/2-5/8". I cant find a spec for the 07 and up, it just said drive it to set it.
After reading a lot of post on this, seems most do get some improvement or at least think they do. Only 2 or 3 feel it didn't do any thing. I caled my Indy and he said they have sold them with good feed back.
So I think I will stop by there tomorrow and order one, I sure hope I'm not wasting $100 for nothing.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by GPHDXLC
OP here.
Well, I have the cover off and the chain seems tight to me, I can only get 1/4" movement and on older bikes it was 1/2-5/8". I cant find a spec for the 07 and up, it just said drive it to set it.
After reading a lot of post on this, seems most do get some improvement or at least think they do. Only 2 or 3 feel it didn't do any thing. I caled my Indy and he said they have sold them with good feed back.
So I think I will stop by there tomorrow and order one, I sure hope I'm not wasting $100 for nothing.
It would be interesting to collect information about the oils used by those who had IPB issues. The tensioner will mechanically protect the chain, but I would not include a bearing using a nylon cage considering its poor chemical resistance to light acids.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #64  
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I just put the Hayden M6 BT07 in, piece of cake ! Really well build all machined unit ! The chain wasn't too tight, but I believe this to be a far better setup than the hydraulic unit. Everything else checked out fine.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 01:20 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by drukanfu
I just put the Hayden M6 BT07 in, piece of cake ! Really well build all machined unit ! The chain wasn't too tight, but I believe this to be a far better setup than the hydraulic unit. Everything else checked out fine.
delivered next year's version then, machined instead of welded ...
Why do you write that your old unit is hydraulic? It should be a ratcheting mechanism because we have no oil pressure available in there.
Do you know which material is used for the skid of the M6? If the polyamide is different than the original material we ought to be precocious about acidic oil degradation or simply stick to mineral oil in there. Mine is under way
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 05:19 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Expat1
delivered next year's version then, machined instead of welded ...
Why do you write that your old unit is hydraulic? It should be a ratcheting mechanism because we have no oil pressure available in there.
Do you know which material is used for the skid of the M6? If the polyamide is different than the original material we ought to be precocious about acidic oil degradation or simply stick to mineral oil in there. Mine is under way
I think he may be refering to the Hot Bikes HB 125 Hydraulic primary tensioner
http://www.sohotbikes.com/hb125.html
I tried one of these on my '06 and the the chain seemed still to tight made too much "whrring" noise
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 06:51 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by drukanfu
I just put the Hayden M6 BT07 in, piece of cake ! Really well build all machined unit ! The chain wasn't too tight, but I believe this to be a far better setup than the hydraulic unit. Everything else checked out fine.
That's good to know fu.
How many shims did you have to use?
I had one on my softail and it was ok, not great but ok.
It would still clunk into gear on occasion.
My SG does not always clunk into gear either all the time.
How does it ride so far?
What are your observations?

Oh yeah, your new avatar is just too much..LOLOL...
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 07:22 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Expat1
Do a search with:
polyamide bearing cage EP additives TAN (total acid number) and you will read the same information for hours

skf peek vs polyamide ep additive

ntn polyamide ep additive (ntn-snr French paper)

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/p...aincatalogue=1

http://www.google.ch/url?sa=t&rct=j&...yea2cw&cad=rja

INA; ***_Bearings; SKF; NTN have published individual specifications pointing to the same conclusion.
*** stand for Fox Alpha Golf Bearing company, not a person.

Here you have the chemical resistance of plastic materials to chemicals: look for Nylon or Type 6
http://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical...nce_chart.html

http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polyamide-Nylon-6,-6.html

http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...H1ZZYA&cad=rja

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon#H...nd_degradation

I did this search for my work and found that radiation damage applied to plastics (called reticulation => material becomes brittle like a soda cracker) also applies to plastic bearing cages when exposed to heat and acidity for long periods.

Happy reading
Sir,I'm impressed!Thank you for the interesting information,I've ordered one yesterday.
 

Last edited by luisan; Dec 5, 2012 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #69  
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From: N.E. Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Expat1
delivered next year's version then, machined instead of welded ...
Why do you write that your old unit is hydraulic? It should be a ratcheting mechanism because we have no oil pressure available in there.
Do you know which material is used for the skid of the M6? If the polyamide is different than the original material we ought to be precocious about acidic oil degradation or simply stick to mineral oil in there. Mine is under way
Waiting for a call back from Hayden about the shoe material, I'm going to stick with HDs recommendation of Formula + for now because of fretting issues with the compensator. I should have taken a pic of it before I installed, can't find a pic of the new style they must of sent. All machined, no welds. Much higher quality than any pics I've seen on their site or any adds. I'll get back when I find out the wear shoe material.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #70  
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From: N.E. Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by lionsm13
That's good to know fu.
How many shims did you have to use?
I had one on my softail and it was ok, not great but ok.
It would still clunk into gear on occasion.
My SG does not always clunk into gear either all the time.
How does it ride so far?
What are your observations?

Oh yeah, your new avatar is just too much..LOLOL...
I didn't need any shims, only 13,000 on the original chain and it measured 1/4" so it's a little tighter than the minimum of 3/8" they recommend.
Cold, wet, windy so only a short ride with it. I did definitely notice there was no herky, jerky in lower gears going thru town. First gear engagement was just a firm click, no clunk. It's impressive so far, bike is up for the winter now though.
 
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