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Teardrop, i hear what you are saying, but this is the third bike that i have owned. The first that had ABS, but i have never had this much trouble just doing a normal stop. With my other bikes, just down shift accordingly, squeeze brake until you stop. For some reason somehting just don't feel right about this bike. Dealership says everything is fine. Feel like a dumb *** trying to figure out these brakes. Frustrating.
I went through exactly what you're dealing with. I had the dealer look at the rotors and ABS and was told everything checked out fine. So I went and changed the front rotors anyway, and sure enough the problem went away. What's throwing you off, is that the dealer said it is OK. What is likely the problem is that your rotors are slightly warped and get a little "gabby" in one spot when you're about to stop.
To troubleshoot the problem, see if you're getting any pulsation when braking at higher speeds. If you are, then it is likely a warped rotor. Try braking with only the rear or the front when you are a just about stopped and see if the problem goes away. That will tell you which rotor(s), front or back, are/is causing the problem.
"You guys that think your ABS isn't working right just do what Glide said and pull the fuse. I think its a mental problem."
Guarantee you it is not mental....the ABS is kicking in...but not necessarily when I want it to. Coming up to a stoplight and kick it down a gear to let it growl a little bit...and all the sudden your rear brakes COMPLETELY disengage for what feels like a second or so. When coming up on a stopped car at the light....it sure makes your butt pucker. Gotten more used to it....and dont downshift when traffic in front of me...but my ABS DOES kick in at times on dry clean pavement when I am NOT braking that hard...not even close to locking up the rears...
Feel free to come ride it...I'll let you climb on it and tell me if I'm mental...which I am....but not when it comes to how the bike is reacting : )
question.......... if you pull the abs fuse.. will there be a error code or light come on?? just wondering..I'm not fond of my abs eather... wish I didnt have it..but dont want any error codes to pop up or cause any other issues..
"You guys that think your ABS isn't working right just do what Glide said and pull the fuse. I think its a mental problem."
Guarantee you it is not mental....the ABS is kicking in...but not necessarily when I want it to. Coming up to a stoplight and kick it down a gear to let it growl a little bit...and all the sudden your rear brakes COMPLETELY disengage for what feels like a second or so. When coming up on a stopped car at the light....it sure makes your butt pucker. Gotten more used to it....and dont downshift when traffic in front of me...but my ABS DOES kick in at times on dry clean pavement when I am NOT braking that hard...not even close to locking up the rears...
Feel free to come ride it...I'll let you climb on it and tell me if I'm mental...which I am....but not when it comes to how the bike is reacting : )
Steve O!
Well, the answer to your problems is simple. If the ABS is really engaging when you downshift or when you're not close to locking up the tires, or is staying disengaged for over a second - then the system is malfunctioning and needs to be fixed ASAP. That's just not how a properly operating ABS performs.
Try braking with the front wheel only and see what happens. Some guys use a lot of back brake and little front. If you are downshifting hard and using lots of rear brake then the bike may be sensing that the rear wheel is locking up. Try braking very gently with no down shift with the rear only. If you feel a vibration/pulse then you may have a warped rear rotor. If you sense a pulse in the front brake with gentle braking front only then I'll be you have a warped rotor. I will say that I had a severely warped rotor on the front and while it was annoying it didn't affect the bike's ability to stop.
One thing i learned when replacing my front wheel and rotors was these brembo brakes don't tolerate any warpage in the rotors. My first set of custom rotors were a one piece design. After a few hundred miles i had pulsation in the lever. I switched to a two-piece design and the problem went away. With the one-piece design i also experienced the same problem as the OP - in that the brakes would sometimes grab a little during slow speed stops, which resulted in the bike coming to a stop quicker than expected - very annoying to say the least.
For the OP, unless you find a dealer to resolve your problem, i would suggest you try the following:
1) remove calipers and pads and clean everything real good with some brake cleaner.
2) If #1 doesn't help, then install some different brake pads - i'd suggest EBC
3) If #2 doesn't help, then install some two-piece or floating style rotors.
Sorry, should have been more clear and not piled on the post. My rotors and pads are GOOD...no pulsating whatsoever from front or rear. Just the damned ABS kicking in at a bad time. Heard the '09s were noted for being a little too eager to kick in the ABS...and plan to ask my dealer when taking it in. Not sure if it is true or not but plan to find out cause I just don't think mine are working the way they are supposed to. Only buddy that has a bike with ABS has been in AZ...so cant even ride his to see if comparable. Hope not....if they are supposed to be like this....bad design....
question.......... if you pull the abs fuse.. will there be a error code or light come on?? just wondering..I'm not fond of my abs eather... wish I didnt have it..but dont want any error codes to pop up or cause any other issues..
It looks like, if you have ABS, this may be "normal".
ABS Symptoms and Conditions
SYMPTOM CONDITION Pulsing brake lever or pedal during an ABS event Normal condition. Clicking sound during an ABS event Normal condition. ABS lamp flashing Normal condition - key turned to IGNITION - speed under 3 mph 5 km/h . Perceived "surge" while braking Normal condition - most noticeable when braking with one brake (front only or rear only). Result of a reduction in deceleration which can be caused by cracks or bumps in road, engine braking (high engine RPMs causing the rear wheel to slow down), hard braking at slow speeds, and other conditions. This is due to ABS modulating caliper brake pressure to prevent uncontrolled wheel lock. Temporarily stiff rear brake pedal Normal condition - engine braking (high engine RPMs causing the rear wheel to slow down) or down shifting can activate ABS. If applying the rear brake at the same time or immediately after, the ABS may be closing a valve to prevent pressure to the rear brake. This is due to ABS modulating caliper brake pressure to prevent uncontrolled wheel lock. Tire chirp Normal condition - depending on surface, tire can chirp without locking the wheel. Black mark on pavement Normal condition - depending on surface, tire can leave a black mark without locking the wheel. Wheel lock at low speed Normal condition - ABS will not activate on front wheel below 3 mph 5 km/h
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