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Ok, Here's the spec's first. 2010 FLHX 19k mi. Warrany exp. last July.
A couple of weeks ago I here the primary growling. From what I've read on this site, this is fairly common. The primary chain was on the tight side. I will be replacing the oem with a Hayden. I have to replace the IPR with OEM, Baker informed me that the one piece will not work on a 10'.
I tear the primary down and have a tough time removing the inner race. I have the puller but that inner race was a bitch. Trashed bussiness end of the puller but got it off.
What I found was that the inner race had been installed backwards.
My question is, can this cause a bearing failure and could this be the reason the race was so difficult to remove ?
Also on a side note the manual says, shows the bearing located by two snap rings. Mine had a shoulder on the clutch side and a snap ring on th pully side.
Made pressing out a bit different than normal. Had to find a suitable socket to press with. I used a 32mm impact socket, just a hair tight.
Where did the oil leak? did it coat the under side of your starter? I may have the same problem with my 2010 FLHX..
I had no leak. There was a loud growling sound with the clutch engaged / out and tranny in neutral.
If the oil is under the stater. I'd start by checking the seal on the starter. There is a o ring where it enters the primary. Not hard to do depending on you exhaust configuration.
I'm dealing with the same issue right now. I already have the new bearing installed into the primary but do not have the tool for pulling the race.
I'm going to try scoring the race with a dremel like many others have done and see if I can get it off that way. Also have a two arm puller I can modify to fit...just need to get to it and stop staring at it. lol
The whole thing has been a learning experience and a little painful. Going on day three messing with the thing.
Using the dremel is the easiest way of removing the race from my experience.You have to cut a little more than halfway thru the race but not too much as to score the shaft, then wacked it hard with a punch and hammer.
Just thinking out loud.....Did you think the inner race was wrong because one end had more chamfer on outside edge? The inner chamfer goes on first per manual. Also just one snap ring ring on outer roller bearing. It presses in from drive belt side. Then retainer ring and then seal. Be sure when you put the retainer ring on it is positioned correctly. The open area between the eyes that the snap ring tool goes in straddles that oil hole in the inner case. That inner aluminum shoulder is not too strong, so watch the pressure. That bearing should not be very tight. lp, how are are you going to install inner race that you cut off? Be sure to maintain that .100 -.125 (1/8") spacing.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 29, 2014 at 08:14 AM.
Using the dremel is the easiest way of removing the race from my experience.You have to cut a little more than halfway thru the race but not too much as to score the shaft, then wacked it hard with a punch and hammer.
Ditto. I let the dremel cut to within 1\16" of the shaft, cutting it a bit close there so to speak. Stuck a 1" cold chisel in the groove and wacked it. Race came right off. Replaced with Baker setup. The groove I cut was diagonal, not enough room there to dremel straight front to back without touching the pulley.
lp, how are are you going to install inner race that you cut off? Be sure to maintain that .100 -.125 (1/8") spacing.
Just going to use a piece of PVC and drive it on. I already have a spacer deal I made that I can fit in behind it to keep it from being driven too far.
Good times. Neat to see all the inner working of this mug though...
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