Noise from starter area when starting
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 521
Likes: 3
From: Virginia
Just wondering if you've done a compression test for each cylinder. Perhaps even with the compression releases your compression is too high for the starter to turn over the engine. When I upgraded mine from an 88" to 95" my cylinder pressures were about 230 PSI for each cylinder and even with compression releases the bike was very difficult to start. I'm not sure what else to look at but I'm sure some of the more experienced folks will chime in soon. Good luck.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Remove your negative battery cable first - then take the end off the starter solenoid and check the copper terminals. You will find a sprin loaded plunger with a copper washer that is sucked down when you hit the starter button and makes a connection between 2 large copper terminals. With higher compression the starter will kick out if the load is too great. You still have your finger on the button so the electro magnetis solenoid sucks the plunger down on the terminals again after it kicks out. H-D sell a rebuild kit that is ther plunger and the 2 terminals. Try cleaning them first.
Now do you want to know why I said remove the negative cable? Many years ago I did this without disconnecting the battery, cleaned everything up really good with carb cleaner, then decided to stick my brass toothbrush in the bore and shorted between the termninals. Woooof.....Instant firball under the tank and seat.... Seemed like forever looking for that fire extinguisher!
Now do you want to know why I said remove the negative cable? Many years ago I did this without disconnecting the battery, cleaned everything up really good with carb cleaner, then decided to stick my brass toothbrush in the bore and shorted between the termninals. Woooof.....Instant firball under the tank and seat.... Seemed like forever looking for that fire extinguisher!
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 3
From: Simpsonville, SC
That's what I thought too thats why I replaced it. I put the BDL one in.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 3
From: Simpsonville, SC
Remove your negative battery cable first - then take the end off the starter solenoid and check the copper terminals. You will find a sprin loaded plunger with a copper washer that is sucked down when you hit the starter button and makes a connection between 2 large copper terminals. With higher compression the starter will kick out if the load is too great. You still have your finger on the button so the electro magnetis solenoid sucks the plunger down on the terminals again after it kicks out. H-D sell a rebuild kit that is ther plunger and the 2 terminals. Try cleaning them first.
Now do you want to know why I said remove the negative cable? Many years ago I did this without disconnecting the battery, cleaned everything up really good with carb cleaner, then decided to stick my brass toothbrush in the bore and shorted between the termninals. Woooof.....Instant firball under the tank and seat.... Seemed like forever looking for that fire extinguisher!
Now do you want to know why I said remove the negative cable? Many years ago I did this without disconnecting the battery, cleaned everything up really good with carb cleaner, then decided to stick my brass toothbrush in the bore and shorted between the termninals. Woooof.....Instant firball under the tank and seat.... Seemed like forever looking for that fire extinguisher!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
must be the starter drive, Check out Weldon, don't know anybody that has used this product but their advertisement sounds impressive
www.harleystarterdrives.com
www.harleystarterdrives.com
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 3
From: Simpsonville, SC
So I broke out the volt meter today. I had 12.1v ignition off, 11.76 ignition on, cranked it dropped to 5.9v then to 8.0v. F'n junk batteries, it's not that old and spends a lot of time on a tender. Who makes the best batteries for a bagger?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
I spend more money on, but have always got more life out, of the stock glass mat harley battery. I even put one for a sportster in my Honda Rancher ATV. Honda realer wanted to charge me $100 for the same battery I could buy at Walmart for $38
I can't ever ecall getting less than 5 years out of a Harley battery
I can't ever ecall getting less than 5 years out of a Harley battery
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 2,855
From: Oklahoma
At least for the moment, many are happy with the Big Crank ordered from batterymart.com. You can run through the menu and find the right battery for your machine. For recent Road Kings, the battery is right at $100 delivered to your door. The battery is made by East Penn Manufacturing, the same outfight that makes the Harley branded batteries, supposedly on the same assembly line. I had one die in 18 months while using a maintainer, others have had much better luck. It is an AGM style, highly recommended. An equivalent battery is available from Autozone, Oreilly, Batteries Plus and others, all for $25 more minimum, some very close to the Harley price. I believe Batteries Plus gives a 2 year warranty, but you pay for it in a higher price.