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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #21  
Ape Hangers's Avatar
Ape Hangers
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For 16's, probably 8" over for cables. When you run the wires in the bars, stagger your solder joints so that they are not all bunched up in one spot. You can use wire purchased at an electronics store, you don't have to buy a premade extended harness. Use heat shrink on all solder connections and then heat shrink the whole harness. Run your TBW separate and be sure to tape the connector plug together, because when you pull it through the bars the plug could come apart. Use electricians glide gel, it will make things easier to pull through the bars. I ran my brake line through the bars using Russells Pro System (it's a build your own line kit) and also my hydraulic clutch line (if you have one). Just take your time and label wires as you cut them with masking tape, it's not that difficult. Let me know if you have any other questions, I am happy to help, Iv'e done this at least a half a dozen times.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 06:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by z71_fourwheelin
And I keep reading your post hoping she pops out of that shirt...
I swear that's Sara jay!!!! Look her up!!!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 06:34 PM
  #23  
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Now back to the op... I'm doin torch bars 14 in.. U will need to change therubber riser bushing to poly urethane bushing!! Everything else has been pointed out.. I used 16 ga wire for my extensions soleder n heat shrink!! I went wit +8 wit clutch +10 on the upper brake line!!magnum chromite
 

Last edited by bosshog919; Feb 22, 2013 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bosshog919
Now back to the op
Yes please, back to the op, leave my avatar alone haha! Did you solder your TBW as well? I'm thinking of maybe saving $100 and doing that instead of the SE TBW.
 

Last edited by DrWalkinboner; Feb 22, 2013 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bosshog919
Now back to the op... I'm doin torch bars 14 in.. U will need to change therubber riser bushing to poly urethane bushing!! Everything else has been pointed out.. I used 16 ga wire for my extensions soleder n heat shrink!! I went wit +8 wit clutch +10 on the upper brake line!!magnum chromite
do you HAVE to put the poly bushing? i'm waiting for brown to drop off my bars and plan on doing it ASAP but i didnt order the other bushing concidering that my bike is still pretty new.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #26  
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mike5380
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I put apes on my RK last year and posted the thread below. I hope this points out some of the probelm areas I ran into.

Good luck,
Mike


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...with-pics.html
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #27  
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Default Only a recommendation

Originally Posted by SkunkX
Why would it be critical to use a 25 watt solder gun? The solder either melts or it doesn't, am I right? Not trying to be a smartass, just curious because I noticed mine is a 23 watt little stick iron.
Well that's the recommend common standard for soldering and de-soldering anything in electronics work such as components and or wiring up to a certain gauge of wire.

You start getting into higher wattage for that kind of or simliar work it'll melt things rather fast and or destroy components. It'll be to much on the hot side. But that's no guarantee either as you can take a 25 watt solder gun and destory stuff just as easy as you would with a 40 watt gun. The 60/40 solder is for electronics work period. It's made for those types of components you would be working on and flows well for those applications. EX: Wiring

I don't take anything on here very serious at all. We're just a bunch of peeps with similar interests and or are trying to learn something our self, or help some else.

Everything on here is subjective to a point. I drive a Chevy you might drive a Ford? We all have different methods and approaches to the things we've learned, experienced or like.

Lets just say it's only a recommendation anyone is free to do as they please. It's maybe a habit as it comes from 12 years in the electronics industry as a board level repair technician and 8 years as former electronics engineer.

Not sure about your 23 watt solder gun? Sounds like a Harbor Freight model? Some of that stuff there works great but always seems to be a tad off somehow IMHO.

None-the-less, it would work fine with the appropriate solder of course. Again only a recommendation.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #28  
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Default Recommendation

Originally Posted by Str33tgl1de
do you HAVE to put the poly bushing? i'm waiting for brown to drop off my bars and plan on doing it ASAP but i didnt order the other bushing concidering that my bike is still pretty new.
Well...it's subjective on here. Some will say yes...others no.

I only recommend them myself to help stiffen things up with higher bars. I did mine with poly...again only a recommendation?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DrWalkinboner
Yes please, back to the op, leave my avatar alone haha! Did you solder your TBW as well? I'm thinking of maybe saving $100 and doing that instead of the SE TBW.
Nope haven't yet.. Hope I don't have too... 14 in bars should work jus connect under the radio.. Wanting on my bars so stay tuned!!!!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #30  
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I've done three of these swaps, two 12" apes on FLHXs and just did 14"s on my FLHR. Go with the poly bushings. The extra length of those bars puts a lot more pressure on those bushings particularly with tall apes cause you have a tendency to pull back on them all the time. Only takes a few minutes to change them and it's worth it.
 
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