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And HCC is a quality company that uses name brand stuff 90% of the time. Very friendly and if you have no experience doing this stuff I would also recommend them. Ive bought 2 sets through them and numerous other parts.
I forgot to add you'll need a new 'longer' front control brake line also. I think stock is limited to maybe 14 inch bars...Note I say I think? Others may say different and I can live with that. And matching lowers brake lines with a new brake doughnut.
You'll have to go so many inches over stock for the front control brake line. Normally, they specify it as a 'plus'. For example...A Stock brake line might be 10 inches but going to a 16 inch ape you might need a +8...Or...whatever?
Course another factor is on the 'clutch cable' they might need to know how long the stock is and then another + comes into play. Let's say it's 16 inches stock and you need an extra 4 (just an example). So it's +4 over stock.
Also...They...who ever you buy from might even want to know what the "Travel Distance" is on the clutch cable. That is the end going into the transmission side cover. Fully extended at this is end it will be a small measurement...like 2 inches or...whatever?
Also, invest in a "GOOD" set of snap ring pliers you'll need them for the 'clutch side' when changing bars and or clutch cable. That's a large snap ring in there and a strong one too. Take note on it's position when removing and replace back in the same orientation as it came or comes out.
Again, as you see I could or someone else could write a small book on this and procedures required to do this. However, take you time...take notes...hell take pictures prior if you have to so you won't have doubts about how things go back. Note: A manual is "Highly recommended".
What I found about Splicing & Soldering all of that it works true. But it can be a jumbled mess also. It can be done but it takes time, extra supplies such as heat shrink, heat gun, solder, and understanding good soldering. For this use a 25 watt solder gun and 60/40 solder...nothing else.
And finally...with splicing and soldering you often get wire leads from a kit your buying but its...Silver Strained Wire and then you're soldering onto H.D. "Copper Strained Wire". The two don't mix well...It grows things over time...Just another note and Subjective on here.
Good luck YOU CAN DO IT.......
Last edited by Biker John; Feb 21, 2013 at 09:30 PM.
Reason: Wording again...duh!
nitrohound, try these threads. Lots of pics and testimonials so hopefully it helps you out. I'm about to order all my cables from Eastern Performance this week. I decided not to waste time asking around here for opinions on what size cables I need and everything and just wanted to call a shop and get their opinion. This will be my first time doing bars but with the threads below and the manual I'm confident it will be easy. Time consuming but easy. Good luck!
Like I said before, I have HCC 14" bars that measure 16". I just ordered a new clutch cable from Magnum Chromlite for mine. Not sure how much over stock it is, but its the longest one they make 72". Thats how long the one that HCC sent with the bars. I also think the brake line is also 72". The clutch cable they sent was not that good of quality, it only lasted 37,000 miles and started sticking. Not sure how long there suppose to last, maybe thats about right. Don't know.
What I found about Splicing & Soldering all of that it works true. But it can be a jumbled mess also. It can be done but it takes time, extra supplies such as heat shrink, heat gun, solder, and understanding good soldering. For this use a 25 watt solder gun and 60/40 solder...nothing else.
Why would it be critical to use a 25 watt solder gun? The solder either melts or it doesn't, am I right? Not trying to be a smartass, just curious because I noticed mine is a 23 watt little stick iron.
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