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Revolution Performance Cylinders

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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Default Revolution Performance Cylinders

Any thoughts on Revolution Performance cylinders? Ive read some reviews which weren't that great. Im just wondering whether they improved their cylinders? From what I understand they switched over to Wiseco pistons and that helped with their past issues. Im looking to have a 117 built and just wanted some imput before the project actually started. The cylinders were ordered however not shipped. Should I just buy S&S cylinders or spend a few extra and buy Jims.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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Anyone have any information
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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There are other suppliers of 117 kits and HDF also has sponsors who can help you out, I'm sure. Plenty of choice.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Having owned many jap bikes, dirt and street, I have yet to figure out why the MOCO has yet to switch to this type of cylinder. Rice manufacturers have been using it since the late 70's. They are almost wear free, more efficient and stable. The wear is in the pistons so it is much cheaper to rebuild. The thermal transfer is better because the cylinder is all aluminum, excepting the nikasil coating. And the cylinder is more stable because it is one solid piece, rather than the jug and pressed in sleeve. The sleeves have been known to loosen, especially on bigger bores with the smaller jug and High Output engine. How hard are you going to run the engine? The RevPer cylinders are pricey tho'. How long do you expect to keep the bike? If you are going to keep it for the long run, the cost could be worth it. I have been running the RevPer cyls. for three or four years, I forget, on a 98" stage III build. I could not be happier with the results. Could I have the same results with a traditional sleeved cyl? Possibly. But with all the money I have tied up in the engine alone, port and polished heads, oversize valves, bullet proofing of bottom end; why take the chance on a sleeve working loose. Especially with the 100mm bore which takes my 88" out to a statistical 98" mill. The cooling fins are thicker for more heat transfer as well as no built in cast iron to aluminum thermal barrier of the sleeved jug. Just some food for thought, hope it helped.
 

Last edited by slickrick_58; Mar 23, 2013 at 04:48 PM. Reason: punctuation
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 05:18 PM
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Nikasil was superseded a long time ago, as a process and it had its problems for many years, in BMW cars and bikes, as well as Moto Guzzi, to name just a few. I don't know the name of the current version, but it is more reliable I believe.

However making cylinders hasn't stood still! Steel liners in alloy jackets is a perfectly legitimate alternative, as the MoCo and other brands continue to prove. As an engineer I can see the attraction of new processes, having earned my living with some of them, but that doesn't mean the old ways become junk over night.

As you chaps say: if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
 

Last edited by grbrown; Mar 24, 2013 at 07:40 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by slickrick_58
Having owned many jap bikes, dirt and street, I have yet to figure out why the MOCO has yet to switch to this type of cylinder. Rice manufacturers have been using it since the late 70's. They are almost wear free, more efficient and stable. The wear is in the pistons so it is much cheaper to rebuild. The thermal transfer is better because the cylinder is all aluminum, excepting the nikasil coating. And the cylinder is more stable because it is one solid piece, rather than the jug and pressed in sleeve. The sleeves have been known to loosen, especially on bigger bores with the smaller jug and High Output engine. How hard are you going to run the engine? The RevPer cylinders are pricey tho'. How long do you expect to keep the bike? If you are going to keep it for the long run, the cost could be worth it. I have been running the RevPer cyls. for three or four years, I forget, on a 98" stage III build. I could not be happier with the results. Could I have the same results with a traditional sleeved cyl? Possibly. But with all the money I have tied up in the engine alone, port and polished heads, oversize valves, bullet proofing of bottom end; why take the chance on a sleeve working loose. Especially with the 100mm bore which takes my 88" out to a statistical 98" mill. The cooling fins are thicker for more heat transfer as well as no built in cast iron to aluminum thermal barrier of the sleeved jug. Just some food for thought, hope it helped.
Do I run my engine hard now?? Once in a while and for a quick blast. Otherwise Im not. Right now I have a 103 build pushing 110hp and 118lbs tq. I put in Woods 888 cams in and that gave it some oompth. Im going have Rosa's Cycles in NY do all my bottom end work and they will also be putting my 117 together and tuning it. I heard mixed reviews on the rev Perf products. Mainly about their older stuff. From what I hear they changed a few things. But it would be more reassuring if others gave their opinions. It would be better if I had more information on their newer stuff. Most of the forum sponsors on this forum use either S&S, Rev Perf, Axtell or Harley stuff. And the two I spoke with both said Rev Perf was good to go however one said even if was good to use rev perf for a larger build he would use S&S which is only $100 less than Rev Perf. So I need to do more research. Unless someone already has that research handy
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Nikasil was superseded a long time ago, as a process and it had its problems for many years, in BMW cars and bikes, as well as Moto Guzzi, to name just a few. I don't know the name of the current version, but it is more reliable I believe.

However making cylinders hasn't stood still! Steel liners in alloy jackets is a perfectly legitimate alternative, as the MoCo and other brands continue to prove. As an engineer I can see the attraction of new processes, having earned my living with some of them, but that doesn't mean the old ways become junk over night.

As you chaps say: if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Yes, that is correct, nikasil seems to have been replaced. However, nikasil has become a generic term for an eletroplated cylinder much like it is popular here to call an adjustable wrench a "Cresent" wrench, locking pliers "Vise Grips" or tongue and groove pliers "Channel Locks." It was just the first brand name and stuck as the generic catchall, I suppose. While it used to be conventional wisdom that 3-15/16 inches was the maximum bore for a standard cylinder, the 100mm or approximately 4 inch bore seems to be coming the norm. Having read several articles on the sleeves moving within the jug of the bigger bore, none lately, I just prefer not to chance it if I can afford not to.
I do have to admit that many vendors here, within the forum, are using the 100mm bore with success. I am just glad there are options.
 

Last edited by slickrick_58; Mar 27, 2013 at 10:06 PM. Reason: added: within the forum,
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by slickrick_58
While it used to be conventional wisdom that 3-15/16 inches was the maximum bore for a standard cylinder, the 100mm or approximately 4 inch bore seems to be coming the norm. Having read several articles on the sleeves moving within the jug of the bigger bore, none lately, I just prefer not to chance it if I can afford not to.
I suggest those dimensions are way out of date! Don't let yourself be put off by such stuff.

Let us go back to your ambition, to use a big bore kit. I own an S&S motor with 4"/101.6mm bore and would have no qualms in buying a bigger bore motor. S&S have plenty of experience of their chosen cylinder construction, both racing and on the street. They also stand by their products I understand (my motor is 5 years old and I haven't had any problems), so any of their kits would be a good choice IMHO.

On the other hand you asked about the RevPerf and I very much doubt they are selling them with their fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong! They do "carry a lifetime warranty against warping and/or plating defects" after all! What more could you possibly want?!

I personally would choose S&S, but I can see no reason not to go with RevPerf if that is what catches your eye. I had a JIMS stroker kit which was fine for the few years I ran it.

Hope that helps!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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I have a Rev-Tec 97" BB kit on my 01. Have put 8000 miles on it so far with no problems. Had heads ported and larger valves with bee hive springs and used the Woods 5G cams and directional lifters. Very happy so far.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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I am looking at doing their 98 or 107 kit on my bike. I have talked to a few shops out here that have done the 107 kit and they swear by it.

I think first is going to be the transmission upgrade to get the RPMs down on the freeway.
 
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