I rode the bike again yesterday evening. Out my garage, it was doing the same thing it did when I first put the battery in 3 days ago. Lurching. After riding like this for a few minutes, I pulled over and shut the bike down for less than 5 minutes. The bike started up and rode great after the 2nd start up. I rode for a few miles and shut the bike down again, waited a few minutes and started it up again. After the 3rd start up, the bike still ran great.

What could be causing the bike to run crappy after initial start up after I put in the new battery?

-Banging my head against the wall

 

Try to disconnect the alternator plug (3 wires) and run on the battery alone. There is no risk for this type of alternator to run 'open' (without a load). If the symptom continues then disconnect the other connector from the regulator. There are two functions built into the regulator: rectify AC into DC and trim the voltage to 14.5V DC.

 

Another Update: Took the bike out again today, same issue after start up. Bad lurching and hesitation for the first few miles, then after I shut the bike down and re-start, it runs fine. I rode about 25 miles after the 2nd start up and the bike felt great.

Now, here's the new development. Right as I was pulling into my driveway, both the Check Engine and Battery Warning lights came on. I shut the bike down, waited a few minutes and when I restarted it, the warning lights were off.

I checked the diagnostic codes and this is what I got. I'm assuming the dealer cleared the codes when the bike was there 2 weeks ago, but I'm not positive.

P0107 - Map Sensor Open/Low
P0132 - Front Oxygen Sensor High
P0374 - CKP Sensor Sync Error
P0562 - Battery Voltage Low

Any thoughts?

 

These 4 codes have the ECM connector in common plus their individual connector going to a single sensor, except the battery voltage. It's very unlikely that all 3 sensor connectors are not well inserted and you would not get the battery voltage error with the new battery. I would inspect, grease the contacts of the large ECM connector and re-seat it.

 

Go to the service department at another dealer. Your doing way to much troubleshooting on your own. There is a Harley mechanic out there who knows exactly what the problem is.

 

Or a good indy. Plenty of options in the LA area I would think.

 

I cleared all the trouble codes from the bike and went out for a ride today. Same problems I've been having, hesitation after initial start up then it gets better as I ride. About half-way through the ride the check engine light came on. I checked the codes when I got home and this is what I got:

P0107 - MAP Sensor Open/Low
P0374 - CKP Sync Error
P0505 - Loss of Idle Speed Control

Before I rode the bike, I pulled the ECM connector and all the gold pins looked clean. I reconnected it and made sure it was seated and "clicked" together.

Is there anything else that can be gleaned from these codes?

 

Could yor o2 sesnsors be wired wrong? Maybe the front is plugged to the back or vice-versa? Maybe damaged / fouled or just bad?

 

For P0505 the manual says:
The ECM monitors throttle position through the dual position sensors (TPS1 and TPS2). This code will set if the throttle actuation faults cause the idle to become unstable. This can be caused by a loose TPS, throttle actuator friction, or an intermittent air leak.

Now you have 5 codes and they point to 4 'small' connectors plus the ECM connector which is the common one.

If you are skilled in this matter you need to assure all female contacts are well seated and locked in their tiny housings. You will need a single pin insertion tool to push all contacts (from the wire side) till their spring finger prevents them to move backwards at the time of insertion. You need patience good sight and proper lighting.

After going through all these steps if your problem persists you will need the expensive breakout box to have access to your ECM signals as the engine runs. I worked in this field many years and learned to be systematic because the controller can only repeat itself and reacts to signals we provide. I'm not sure the Digital Technician has the logic to debug, this is a totally different approach.

 

More updates, the dealer replaced a couple connectors in the TPS that were loose and replaced the charging system because of the low voltage issue. Bike still had sputtering issues and was putting out random trouble codes.

Today the tech swapped out my ECM with one from a new bike and said the bike ran great and stopped putting out trouble codes. So it looks like it was the ECM that was bad.

Now here's my problem. I had them originally tune my bike with the SERT race tuner which has become completely illegal in the state of CA and now that I have a new ECM, my original SERT won't work with it. So I basically now have very expensive little orange paper weight.

I have a Stage 1 air cleaner and Samson fishtail pipes on he bike. All the dealer can legally do now is give me the Stage 1 download for the new ECM.

Would I be better served putting on a Power Commander or some other type of piggyback tuner?

Any advice is appreciated.

-Alex