I have an '04 RKC with SERT.

Last year for several months I went through a lot of the same problems.

I finally found on my own that the throttle shaft had broke between the two screws on the shaft.Many trips to the Dealer replacing other thing and they never checked that.
Open the throttle and feel the back side of the shaft or a good look with a flashlight.

Did a replace and it has been running great ever since.

Maybe it or isn't but it is sure easy to check.

 

You said up in your first post...When I restarted the bike, the fuel light came on and the range said Low even though the fuel gage was at 1/2 tank and when I visually inspected

I did not read ever detail down thru this string but by chance the fuel low light may not be the ecm connection but a bad pin connection or broken wire in the 3 pin connector at the tank bung under you console. That is also the fuel pump connection. A loose or bad connection letting you fuel pump be off even for just a few seconds off and on (fuel pump runs all the time once engine CPS reads about 10 counts) would cause your problem. When you first key on, the ignition relay has a 3 second timer for the fuel pump. Then once, it starts it runs maintaining the 60psi with the pressure relief in the tank relieving excess. Even a few lbs less then the 60 will cause it not to idle and a little more it may cruse OK at 40 but any acceleration will cause a stumble. Lay your console back on a stool next to bike. Pull that plug and look closely at plug and socket. Re plug and start bike. Shake it by tugging on wires and making sure fuel pump does not cut off. You may have to use a stethoscope to hear the fuel pump or get a DC amp gage on the wire (AC clamp on will not work for this) or have a fuel pressure gage like the dealer that splices in to show the pressure change. When the dealer did the fuel pump work, bet he did not check this.

 

So here's the latest, latest update. They narrowed down the check engine and battery light coming on to a bad induction module. Turns out that part is on national backorder until August. The service manger did a search outside of the US and found one in Puerto Rico. The dealer in Puerto Rico at first didn't want to send the part because he knew they are in high demand, but my dealer sweetened the deal by offering free Harley rentals when the Puerto Rican guys are in LA for dealer meetings. PR agreed to send it and my dealer covered the $130 for overnight shipping.

Because they were replacing the induction module, the warranty inspector also wanted them to replace the throttle sensor in the twist grip. Now here is where it gets interesting... I had my original dealer put 14 inch ape hangers on the bike about 3 years ago. When the service tech pulled the throttle sensor out now, he noticed that instead of installing a longer TPS unit from the factory, all they did was extend the original TPS by splicing extra wire to it. He said most dealers do it this way, but over time it causes problems with short circuits. He said for the last 3 years that bad connection had been wreaking havoc on the electrical system and is potentially what might have caused everything else electrical on the bike to go bad.

Long story short, having electrical problems with these bikes and trying to diagnose them is like taking a trip down the rabbit hole. As someone earlier mentioned, start by checking everything one by one and especially focus on bad wiring, frayed wires, or wires that have their insulation worn off.

I've put about 300 miles on the bike since I got it back last Thursday and the dealer did about another 100 miles on test rides before they released it to me. The bike runs great and no warning lights have come on.

When the bike was at it's worse and it seemed like I was going in circles with the dealers to fix it, trading it in definitely crossed my mind. I still have 4 years left on the extended warranty, so I'm covered for a while. In the end I paid a grand total of $50 for the extended warranty deductible for probably $6,000 to $7,000 in actual parts and labor costs.

Moral of the story, the dealer and service manager went above and beyond to diagnose and fix the problems and even went out of pocket to make things right. Also, at least for me, the extended warranty more than paid for itself.

-Alex

 

I think by calling it the induction module, he is referring to replacing your whole throttle by electrical wire throttle body. There are only a few serviceable parts on it like the two injectors and a MAP/Temp combination part. Compared to a few years ago like mine with the TPS, MAP,TEMP and IAC and all, the unit is quite simple and 1/2 price.

 

Yep, they replaced the whole unit. Would have been very expensive if I didn't have the extended warranty.