I'll try the RTV first. I'll inject it in with a cheap Monojet syringe and see how long that works. Worse comes to worse I'll replace the MF'n stator myself. It's a PIA job and takes a full day. $200 to stop a leak! Just because some useless designers are too lazy and/or dumb to do a decent job.

 

Lower the oil level in your primary by a quart.

 

If you're going to do the RTV repair the most important step is cleaning the area of ALL oil residue prior to applying the RTV. Also look at how the wires are tied to the frame. That can induce loads on the grommet as the engine moves and the wires don't, which is a recipe for failure unless you address it.

I've got 20,000 miles on my repair and it's dry as a bone.

 

Any luck reusing the gaskets?

 

Many, many times.

 

The RTV job is done. I cleaned real thoroughly with spray brake cleaner, electronic contact cleaner, and blew it out with air. Let it dry for a few hours and injected the RTV and coated the grommet where it meets the case. Smoothed it out a little. The RTV isn't really very noticeable. So I'll let it cure for a few days and see how it worked. That is if it warms up to over 60 degrees any time soon.

 

I have used light days oval pads to contain the drip. The look on people when they see it is priceless.

 

I know it wouldn't look sexy but a real electrical feed-through using bulky contacts accessible from the outside is the only solution that can be repaired.

There is no guarantee to seal oily Neoprene or any other polymer with RTV without a sophisticated surface treatment. Only a complete encapsulation done by a new silicon molding over the 3 wires would be viable.

There is a saying: "the end justifies the means", so perhaps someone will propose such a kit one day

 

I replace my stator - bought the complete system from Cycle Electric (thanks Dawg) and it was $500 including the regulator. New grommet design is supposed to prevent leaks and I know it's made in the USA - no clue where the HD stuff is made. Expensive, but supposed to be top quality.

 

Good luck with your repair Bingee.

The only potential problem I see with the way you described your process is the letting it dry for a couple hours before applying the RTV. I wouldn't have waited that length of time between cleaning and RTV application.

Here's why I say that... The solvents you used for cleaning evaporate rather quickly so there's no need for prolonged dry times. Once you finished cleaning the area, the longer you wait before applying the RTV, the greater the chance that the area will become contaminated with oil through capilary action. You're never going to get all of the oil cleaned throughout the grommet and the case. There will always be some residual oil left in the recesses. But you can get it all cleaned from the accessible surfaces so I feel it's best to apply the RTV immediately after cleaning, before there's any chance of the residual oil migrating back to the surfaces you're trying to seal.

Hopefully that wasn't, or won't become, an issue with your repair. I'm just throwing it out there for anyone else considering this type of repair.

One other pointer for anyone doing this type of repair... I've found the best way of smoothing and leveling the RTV is to use a q-tip dipped in water. Very lightly pat or roll the q-tip over the RTV. The water will keep the q-tip from sticking to the RTV reasonably well. And since moisture/humidity promotes the RTV curing process there should be no negative interactions.