Oil Leak From Stator Wire Plug. Fixes?
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 353
From: Ohio
I'll try the RTV first. I'll inject it in with a cheap Monojet syringe and see how long that works. Worse comes to worse I'll replace the MF'n stator myself. It's a PIA job and takes a full day. $200 to stop a leak! Just because some useless designers are too lazy and/or dumb to do a decent job.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
I'll try the RTV first. I'll inject it in with a cheap Monojet syringe and see how long that works. Worse comes to worse I'll replace the MF'n stator myself. It's a PIA job and takes a full day. $200 to stop a leak! Just because some useless designers are too lazy and/or dumb to do a decent job.
I've got 20,000 miles on my repair and it's dry as a bone.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 353
From: Ohio
The RTV job is done. I cleaned real thoroughly with spray brake cleaner, electronic contact cleaner, and blew it out with air. Let it dry for a few hours and injected the RTV and coated the grommet where it meets the case. Smoothed it out a little. The RTV isn't really very noticeable. So I'll let it cure for a few days and see how it worked. That is if it warms up to over 60 degrees any time soon.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
I know it wouldn't look sexy but a real electrical feed-through using bulky contacts accessible from the outside is the only solution that can be repaired.
There is no guarantee to seal oily Neoprene or any other polymer with RTV without a sophisticated surface treatment. Only a complete encapsulation done by a new silicon molding over the 3 wires would be viable.
There is a saying: "the end justifies the means", so perhaps someone will propose such a kit one day
There is no guarantee to seal oily Neoprene or any other polymer with RTV without a sophisticated surface treatment. Only a complete encapsulation done by a new silicon molding over the 3 wires would be viable.
There is a saying: "the end justifies the means", so perhaps someone will propose such a kit one day
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Joe Kucinski
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: San Antonio, Texas
I replace my stator - bought the complete system from Cycle Electric (thanks Dawg) and it was $500 including the regulator. New grommet design is supposed to prevent leaks and I know it's made in the USA - no clue where the HD stuff is made. Expensive, but supposed to be top quality.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
The RTV job is done. I cleaned real thoroughly with spray brake cleaner, electronic contact cleaner, and blew it out with air. Let it dry for a few hours and injected the RTV and coated the grommet where it meets the case. Smoothed it out a little. The RTV isn't really very noticeable. So I'll let it cure for a few days and see how it worked. That is if it warms up to over 60 degrees any time soon.
The only potential problem I see with the way you described your process is the letting it dry for a couple hours before applying the RTV. I wouldn't have waited that length of time between cleaning and RTV application.
Here's why I say that... The solvents you used for cleaning evaporate rather quickly so there's no need for prolonged dry times. Once you finished cleaning the area, the longer you wait before applying the RTV, the greater the chance that the area will become contaminated with oil through capilary action. You're never going to get all of the oil cleaned throughout the grommet and the case. There will always be some residual oil left in the recesses. But you can get it all cleaned from the accessible surfaces so I feel it's best to apply the RTV immediately after cleaning, before there's any chance of the residual oil migrating back to the surfaces you're trying to seal.
Hopefully that wasn't, or won't become, an issue with your repair. I'm just throwing it out there for anyone else considering this type of repair.
One other pointer for anyone doing this type of repair... I've found the best way of smoothing and leveling the RTV is to use a q-tip dipped in water. Very lightly pat or roll the q-tip over the RTV. The water will keep the q-tip from sticking to the RTV reasonably well. And since moisture/humidity promotes the RTV curing process there should be no negative interactions.
Last edited by 2black1s; Apr 3, 2013 at 12:53 PM.