After letting the solvent evaporate I sprayed it again just for that reason before I injected the RTV. Put some around the grommet and smoothed it out with a wet finger. Looks good. I guess we'll see.

 

after remembering a quick fix I did on a newport awhile back I thought I would try something similar on the bike. Took a oring that fit the grommet nice and tight but that was a touch bigger than the hole in the case, worked it over the grommet and applied a little lithium and then worked it into the case. Rode for an hour or more and let her sit for 2 now and no seepage whatsoever. Maybe that will get me by until I can replace the stator

 

That sounds like a good idea. If I ever have the need to do this again I might try your method before the RTV. Did you unplug the stator from the regulator to get the o-ring over the wires and up to the grommet?

Whatever repair you do, I just can't see replacing the entire stator to fix a simple oil leak.

And with as many leakers as HD fixes under warranty I can't beleive they haven't come up with an "approved" repair method short of replacing the stator, or better yet, a more robust design to begin with.

 

Yeah, I unplugged the connector and ran the oring up. I agree its ridiculous replacing the stator just for the plug. I think when I do mine ill just reuse the plug, if a person has it all apart he can clean it properly and coat it with RTV before you install it and never have an issue. I think of all the yamis ive worked on where the wiring is run through the case and just sealed with yamabond without issues. Its worth a shot anyway before replacing a perfectly good stator

 

My 99 Ultra had the stator leak. I cleaned and tried the silicone solution with out much success. Finally replace the stator. But when I did a Harley tech told me to run the electric wires up to the frame and not down to the frame. This way the oil wants to stay in the case, instead of wanting to run down the wires. Seemed to make sense. I had plenty of wire on the 99 so I changed the way they were routed. Have not looked at my 2012 yet to see how the wires are routed. I figured it wasn't a problem anymore, until I read this post. If my new one leaks I'm going to be really pissed.

 

Now after about 500 miles of riding the Ultra Black silicone is holding very well. No leaks.

 

What that HD tech told you actually makes no sense to me. The oil leak is between the grommet and the case. The wires are molded into the grommet so there is no leak between the wires and the grommet in the vast majority of cases. Which way the wires are routed is irrelevant.

The only potential issue I see with the way the wires are routed is if they are inducing any loads on the grommet. That may cause a leak over time by deforming the grommet.

 

This dang minor oil leak is driving me nuts!! I tried the O-Ring trick but it didn't work for me ...can someone tell me if where the wires enter the engine, is that in the Primary or the Engine Block? It looks like the Engine itself but I know the wires connect to the Stator which is behind the Compensator in the Primary so it doesn't make sense to have the wires in the Engine???

My concern is that when I go to clean the area with the Brake Cleaner, it going to contaminate the oil. I just changed the Engine and Primary oil and don't want to dump both again. Which oil will get the contamination, Engine or Primary?

 

I think the appropriate saying here would be; "Necessity is the Mother of invention."

 

The wires enter into the primary, not the engine. Actually they do go through the engine case but into the primary side of the case, not the engine crankcase side.

As for contaminating the oil I wouldn't be concerned. You'd have to have a gaping hole to get any significant amount of whatever cleaner you use, or other contaminants, into the oil.

Like I've said in some of my previous posts, the most important step in this type of repair is the initial cleaning. For all the naysayers, or those who have unsuccesfully tried this repair, I'd be willing to bet that the cleaning process was not done adequately and that was the cause of the repair failure. My repair was done approximately 2 1/2 years and 36,000 miles ago and hasn't shown the slightest sign of failure to date.

For cleaning solvents, although brake cleaner may work, I prefer mineral spirits to clean away the gross contamination, followed by carb cleaner for the final cleansing. Both of these solvents are better at disolving oily residues than brake cleaner.

And finally, here's a link to another thread I started on the same subject that describes in a fair amount of detail the repair I did to my bike... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...il-leak-3.html