First Oil Leak
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
The RTV between the stator grommet and the engine mount flange stabilizes the grommet by minimizing any relative movement between the grommet and the engine case. That relative movement is very likely the root cause of the leak in the first place so minimizing it is a good thing. While filling that cavity or space alone may or may not stop the leak, when combined with the RTV around the grommet to the engine case 360 degrees you have a pretty robust repair.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: MS
The RTV between the stator grommet and the engine mount flange stabilizes the grommet by minimizing any relative movement between the grommet and the engine case. That relative movement is very likely the root cause of the leak in the first place so minimizing it is a good thing. While filling that cavity or space alone may or may not stop the leak, when combined with the RTV around the grommet to the engine case 360 degrees you have a pretty robust repair.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: Chile Flats, AZ
Warranty Worked for Me
The RTV between the stator grommet and the engine mount flange stabilizes the grommet by minimizing any relative movement between the grommet and the engine case. That relative movement is very likely the root cause of the leak in the first place so minimizing it is a good thing. While filling that cavity or space alone may or may not stop the leak, when combined with the RTV around the grommet to the engine case 360 degrees you have a pretty robust repair.
The second part of the problem is that the cable comes from the case making a sharp turn to where an OEM tie-down point on the frame which when combined with engine vibration and heat strains the grommet material beyond its design specs -- vibration, heat, sun eventually gets the better of it.
The fix for me was taking "Flamed" advice -- warranty covered the repair which was a replacement of the stator (used Cycle Electric part). I asked two dealer service managers how common this problem was -- it is common. One dealer commented he replaces more than a dozen or two a week.... seems like to me a better design would save HD a bunch on warranty repairs, but what do I know?
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Today I was reading a new thread about a guy questioning the same leak as described in this thread on his bike. I dug out this thread to provide him a link to my repair and while here I decided to post an update on the repair's effectiveness.
I can report that today, approximately 13 months and 17,410 miles later that the repair has perfromed flawlessly. Not a hint of any leak or seepage is evident.
In my opinion, if done correctly, the silicone repair method described herein is as good a fix as any.
I can report that today, approximately 13 months and 17,410 miles later that the repair has perfromed flawlessly. Not a hint of any leak or seepage is evident.
In my opinion, if done correctly, the silicone repair method described herein is as good a fix as any.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,419
Likes: 6,367
From: Honah Lee
Jet (a plugging situation where you could just purchase a section of the wire harness with a connector at the case).
The older bikes use to have a plug here. Problem is depending on use, a lot of spray and especially in salty areas the connection would corrode raising resistance and the plug when heat up and you would loose you alternator connection. Trouble is both connections would be trash. I am glad it's not two piece. Fixing a drip with some rtv is a lot cheaper then a alternator and a wire harness to the regulator
The older bikes use to have a plug here. Problem is depending on use, a lot of spray and especially in salty areas the connection would corrode raising resistance and the plug when heat up and you would loose you alternator connection. Trouble is both connections would be trash. I am glad it's not two piece. Fixing a drip with some rtv is a lot cheaper then a alternator and a wire harness to the regulator
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,863
Likes: 7,981
From: poway
There is a semi easy fix that works pretty well.. You have to pull the stator, clean the plug and hole real good , then slip 2-4 drain plug O rings over the grommet. I like to use a light coat of high temp sillycone to slip the stator grommet back in place..
Seals em right up.. Got this idea from a friend who got it from a mechanic that works at Gail's HD in Missouri.
Seals em right up.. Got this idea from a friend who got it from a mechanic that works at Gail's HD in Missouri.
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Here we are approximately four years and 60,000 miles since I started this thread. I just read another thread with potentially the same leak as mine so I thought I'd link this thread so the other OP could consider this or a similar repair. And while doing so provide an update on how my repair is performing. In one word... Perfectly! Bone dry without even a hint of any seepage since the repair was made.
At the time of my leak I thought it was foolish to replace the entire stator simply to repair a leak at the grommet. My experience has proven that to be a valid decision.
At the time of my leak I thought it was foolish to replace the entire stator simply to repair a leak at the grommet. My experience has proven that to be a valid decision.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,210
Likes: 3,040
From: St.Louis Mo.
if i have to replace my stator, it's getting some o-rings on it. until then it's sillycone. good tips here!
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 345
Likes: 27
From: Ohio
fresh leak
Here we are approximately four years and 60,000 miles since I started this thread. I just read another thread with potentially the same leak as mine so I thought I'd link this thread so the other OP could consider this or a similar repair. And while doing so provide an update on how my repair is performing. In one word... Perfectly! Bone dry without even a hint of any seepage since the repair was made.
At the time of my leak I thought it was foolish to replace the entire stator simply to repair a leak at the grommet. My experience has proven that to be a valid decision.
At the time of my leak I thought it was foolish to replace the entire stator simply to repair a leak at the grommet. My experience has proven that to be a valid decision.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 905
Likes: 51
From: New Jersey
21,011 miles and I just saw the first drop of oil on the garage floor from my bike (2011 Limited). So I start searching for the source. The bottom of the crankcase is covered as is the joint between the primary case and crankcase in the front. I follow the oil looking for the most forward and highest point that I can find. Bingo. It looks like the rubber seal where the stator wires go through the crankcase.
So now I assess my options:
1) Take it to the dealer to have it fixed under warranty. (Note: This is the least desirable of my options).
2) Remove the primary case and stator. Inspect and replace parts as required. (This is the next least desirable option).
3) Clean the area thoroughly and apply a bead of RTV (silicone) around the stator grommet. (Yeah! Now we're talking!)
So... Option 3 it was. Took about an hour. I'll let it cure overnight and give it a test in the morning, but I'm sure it's going to be fine.
In trying to determine the cause of the leak, I noticed that the wires are zip-tied to the frame. As the engine is running and moving/vibrating in the engine mounts and the wires being "fixed" to the frame, the grommet and orings sealing the stator wires through the crankcase are constantly being stressed by the engine vibrations and the relative movement between the stator grommet and the zip-tie . I believe that is the root cause.
There are two fixes I could see. First, make sure there is as much slack as possible between the stator grommet and the zip-tie. This will provide for the most flexibility in the wires thereby minimizing the stresses on the grommet. The second fix which I did since I already had the RTV out, was to fill the cavity between the engine crakcase and the stator grommet with RTV. This will minimize any relative movement between the stator grommet and the engine by bonding them together, again reducing any stresses on the grommet.
We'll see how this works... Time will tell.
So now I assess my options:
1) Take it to the dealer to have it fixed under warranty. (Note: This is the least desirable of my options).
2) Remove the primary case and stator. Inspect and replace parts as required. (This is the next least desirable option).
3) Clean the area thoroughly and apply a bead of RTV (silicone) around the stator grommet. (Yeah! Now we're talking!)
So... Option 3 it was. Took about an hour. I'll let it cure overnight and give it a test in the morning, but I'm sure it's going to be fine.
In trying to determine the cause of the leak, I noticed that the wires are zip-tied to the frame. As the engine is running and moving/vibrating in the engine mounts and the wires being "fixed" to the frame, the grommet and orings sealing the stator wires through the crankcase are constantly being stressed by the engine vibrations and the relative movement between the stator grommet and the zip-tie . I believe that is the root cause.
There are two fixes I could see. First, make sure there is as much slack as possible between the stator grommet and the zip-tie. This will provide for the most flexibility in the wires thereby minimizing the stresses on the grommet. The second fix which I did since I already had the RTV out, was to fill the cavity between the engine crakcase and the stator grommet with RTV. This will minimize any relative movement between the stator grommet and the engine by bonding them together, again reducing any stresses on the grommet.
We'll see how this works... Time will tell.