Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

First Oil Leak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-02-2012, 10:44 PM
2black1s's Avatar
2black1s
2black1s is offline
Elite HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 3,845
Received 167 Likes on 108 Posts
Default First Oil Leak

21,011 miles and I just saw the first drop of oil on the garage floor from my bike (2011 Limited). So I start searching for the source. The bottom of the crankcase is covered as is the joint between the primary case and crankcase in the front. I follow the oil looking for the most forward and highest point that I can find. Bingo. It looks like the rubber seal where the stator wires go through the crankcase.

So now I assess my options:

1) Take it to the dealer to have it fixed under warranty. (Note: This is the least desirable of my options).
2) Remove the primary case and stator. Inspect and replace parts as required. (This is the next least desirable option).
3) Clean the area thoroughly and apply a bead of RTV (silicone) around the stator grommet. (Yeah! Now we're talking!)

So... Option 3 it was. Took about an hour. I'll let it cure overnight and give it a test in the morning, but I'm sure it's going to be fine.

In trying to determine the cause of the leak, I noticed that the wires are zip-tied to the frame. As the engine is running and moving/vibrating in the engine mounts and the wires being "fixed" to the frame, the grommet and orings sealing the stator wires through the crankcase are constantly being stressed by the engine vibrations and the relative movement between the stator grommet and the zip-tie . I believe that is the root cause.

There are two fixes I could see. First, make sure there is as much slack as possible between the stator grommet and the zip-tie. This will provide for the most flexibility in the wires thereby minimizing the stresses on the grommet. The second fix which I did since I already had the RTV out, was to fill the cavity between the engine crakcase and the stator grommet with RTV. This will minimize any relative movement between the stator grommet and the engine by bonding them together, again reducing any stresses on the grommet.

We'll see how this works... Time will tell.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; 01-02-2012 at 10:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Bizio (12-04-2018)
  #2  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:35 PM
dbinbc's Avatar
dbinbc
dbinbc is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Squamish, BC, Canada
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Good info. Keep us posted. My '09 has had a tiny amount of leaking from same spot since new, that tight zip tied wire is pulling on the grommet. Interested to see how the silicon works out over time as that would be my first choice fix too.
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:57 PM
X Iron Butt's Avatar
X Iron Butt
X Iron Butt is offline
Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Chesapeake Virginia
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

I think you should get some slack in the wires. That plug is made of relatively stiff rubber. If the engine shake is pulling hard enough to stress it's seal it more than likely will compromise the wire over time. Read quite a few threads on here about stators failing. (Hmmmm)
 
  #4  
Old 01-03-2012, 02:12 PM
X Iron Butt's Avatar
X Iron Butt
X Iron Butt is offline
Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Chesapeake Virginia
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

2black1s
I just went out and looked at mine. My case plug protrudes about a quarter inch out of the crancase. Kind of strange you have a cavity you could fill. Maybe the plug is pushed in??? I don't think there were changes to that set up in the year difference.
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-2012, 02:22 PM
2black1s's Avatar
2black1s
2black1s is offline
Elite HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 3,845
Received 167 Likes on 108 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by X Iron Butt
2black1s
I just went out and looked at mine. My case plug protrudes about a quarter inch out of the crancase. Kind of strange you have a cavity you could fill. Maybe the plug is pushed in??? I don't think there were changes to that set up in the year difference.
The grommet is correctly positioned in the crankcase. There is also a stress relief for the wires molded in as part of the grommet. That stress relief extends outward approximately 3/4". The space between the engine crankcase and the stress relief for the wires is the cavity I'm referring to.

I'll try to draw a sketch, scan it, and post it here to help visualize what I'm talking about. Give me a few minutes...
 
The following users liked this post:
Bizio (12-04-2018)
  #6  
Old 01-03-2012, 03:16 PM
2black1s's Avatar
2black1s
2black1s is offline
Elite HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 3,845
Received 167 Likes on 108 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by X Iron Butt
2black1s
I just went out and looked at mine. My case plug protrudes about a quarter inch out of the crancase. Kind of strange you have a cavity you could fill. Maybe the plug is pushed in??? I don't think there were changes to that set up in the year difference.
Originally Posted by 2black1s
The grommet is correctly positioned in the crankcase. There is also a stress relief for the wires molded in as part of the grommet. That stress relief extends outward approximately 3/4". The space between the engine crankcase and the stress relief for the wires is the cavity I'm referring to.

I'll try to draw a sketch, scan it, and post it here to help visualize what I'm talking about. Give me a few minutes...
Ok - here's a sketch. I'm thinking the reason you couldn't grasp what I was explaining is that in '09 when HD changed from a 3-point to 4-point engine mount, the crankcase casting may have changed to accomodate the new mounts. Your '07 may not have the same engine mounting flange as depicted in my sketch. I'm not sure, but that is a possible reason.
 
Attached Thumbnails First Oil Leak-stator-grommet.jpg  
The following users liked this post:
Puttnutt24 (03-30-2020)
  #7  
Old 01-03-2012, 03:44 PM
X Iron Butt's Avatar
X Iron Butt
X Iron Butt is offline
Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Chesapeake Virginia
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Mine looks pretty close to what you have here. I think I was thrown off by cavity thinking of a recess like my Shovel has. To me this would be a gap between the mount and plug harness. I do not have a wire tie within 6 inches of my plug and a nice loop prior to going straight back and through the case. Plug seems solid and dry.
BTW thanks for finding my oil leak at the filter while I was looking. Change due in 1.5K so it will wait.
 
  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 05:06 PM
TUCCI's Avatar
TUCCI
TUCCI is offline
Extreme HDF Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Glendale AZ
Posts: 10,216
Received 218 Likes on 167 Posts
Default

Any way to get an actual pic of the grommet area to go with the drawing?
 
  #9  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:26 PM
FlamedFXR's Avatar
FlamedFXR
FlamedFXR is online now
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hope Mills NC, bye CA!!
Posts: 2,716
Received 1,512 Likes on 646 Posts
Default

Just an FYI.....my extended warranty covered the oil leak at the stator plug on the Road Glide.
 
  #10  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:44 PM
2black1s's Avatar
2black1s
2black1s is offline
Elite HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 3,845
Received 167 Likes on 108 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TUCCI
Any way to get an actual pic of the grommet area to go with the drawing?
You'd need a lot better camera than mine... It's really buried in there, in a mass of black, and it would be hard to distinguish anything in a photo that I could take. That's the reason I made the sketch.
 


Quick Reply: First Oil Leak



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:07 PM.