Enclosed trailer suggestions
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,982
Likes: 5,220
From: Michigan
I've owned two enclosed trailers and too may flatbeds to list here.
I sold my last enclosed trailer last year and I now have a 20' heavy duty landscape trailer that's set-up for 4 Harleys.
IMHO, the smallest enclosed trailer that I would buy would be a 7'x14' with tandem torsion axles and a rear drop down ramp door.
If finances allow, I'd highly recommend an aluminum model with aluminum wheels.
While steel trailers are initially cheaper to purchase, they rust sooner, use more fuel to pull, and the resale on a steel trailer is much less than an aluminum trailer.
Another consideration is the tow vehicle.
A steel trailer, loaded with two baggers will exceed the towing capacity of some smaller or medium sized vehicles.
I sold my last enclosed trailer last year and I now have a 20' heavy duty landscape trailer that's set-up for 4 Harleys.
IMHO, the smallest enclosed trailer that I would buy would be a 7'x14' with tandem torsion axles and a rear drop down ramp door.
If finances allow, I'd highly recommend an aluminum model with aluminum wheels.
While steel trailers are initially cheaper to purchase, they rust sooner, use more fuel to pull, and the resale on a steel trailer is much less than an aluminum trailer.
Another consideration is the tow vehicle.
A steel trailer, loaded with two baggers will exceed the towing capacity of some smaller or medium sized vehicles.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,500
Likes: 332
From: Blue Grass (KY)
I have a 6X10 enclosed now, does what I need it to do...bike to shop if needed and will hold the wife's GW trike..it's a single bike trailer for sure...but again, does what I wanted.
If money was no object, I'd get a 8.5 X 16, dual axle Fetherlite all aluminum enclosed....but hold on to your wallet, they aint cheep
If money was no object, I'd get a 8.5 X 16, dual axle Fetherlite all aluminum enclosed....but hold on to your wallet, they aint cheep
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
Likes: 453
From: Davie, FL
24' Fetherlite
I purchased a 24' Fetherlite with the 2.6' V-Nose for my counter top/work bench & storage. I have been working on it over the past year
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- 6,000# Werner winch
- two (2) 110V 30 amp service/split box. Many interior boxes and 2 exterior underneath the trailer.
- Work bench
- 24" monitor & TV
- T-5 florescent light fixtures
- 13,500 BTU A/C
- 1" Foil Faced closed cell Insulation Panels cut in between the framing.
- 2 X 30 Gal. water tanks with water pump & accumulator & propane water heater & 32" X 6' aluminum drop pan that secures to the wall for the shower. Drain through the floor to a gray water outlet for either sewer or wheeled water tank.
- 2 sliding windows, very important.
- 3 rows of E-Track running full length of the trailer on walls.
- L-Track for tie downs running width wise & 6 removable wheel chalks that screw to 1/2" aluminum plates.
- I am skinning the interior of the trailer ceiling this week.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 600
From: The 1980's
I'm using a 7x14 American Hauler, but only because it used to be my business trailer and I kept it when I upgraded for the business. I agree with the suggestions to go for a tandem axle and at least 7x14. I had a lot of room for an Electra Glide and my wife's Deluxe. So I know that there's plenty of room for the new SG and the wife's bike. Plus room for all kinds of luggage or gear.
If I were to have the funds and get a trailer strictly for motorcycles, I'd look at Blizzard. Built a few hours away from you in Boonville, NY. I've stopped by the plant and looked over trailers in the yard. They appear to be light weight and quality built.
http://www.blizzardmfg.com/
If I were to have the funds and get a trailer strictly for motorcycles, I'd look at Blizzard. Built a few hours away from you in Boonville, NY. I've stopped by the plant and looked over trailers in the yard. They appear to be light weight and quality built.
http://www.blizzardmfg.com/
Supporter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
A tandem axle is a must, Most of my friends are getting E-track full length on left and right outside floors, then run a E-track 3/4 back down the middle, they also run E-track about 40" from the floor on the side walls. Securing your bike is top priority and E-track is the best method. Oh I don't have E-track, but in January you bet your bottom dollar, my trailor is going back to the trailor shop for the Retro, I'm spending the money on the important stuff.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Canyon Lake, CA
Sure, I'll take some pics next time I'm near the trailer and post em. Seems like a worth while investment time to share the issue. Who knows, maybe I'm doing something wrong? Although... I've been pulling trailers for 25 years and never really had an issue on any others in general.
Ok, So I took some pics... After looking at the situation I believe its due to the RV length behind the rear wheels. If I were in a truck, the back end would not dip as low... But due to the long length behind my RV tires, I don't believe it is a good solution to run a low boy trailer for "my RV" set up.. Simple reasoning. Front of RV goes up driveway (or what ever) and rear end dips really low forcing hitch and trailer tongue to drag. I have a 35' motorhome. Perfect size for us... Just not practical with low boy trailer.
I'm also showing the inside set up of my trailer with the Lock N Load Wheel Chock set up which I highly recommend. Ive been loading bikes for 40 years and its never been easier!
Also added two Thule bike racks for easy load n go of mountain bikes.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,982
Likes: 5,220
From: Michigan
I think there's a couple of more issues with the larger trailers that needs to be mentioned.
The main issues for the tow vehicle is both towing capacity (combines weight of trailer and load, and tongue weight (amount of weight that is placed on the hitch by the trailer).
Be sure your vehicle's hitch is heavy enough for the trailer you want to pull and that your vehicle's towing capacity is designed to pull your loaded trailer.
It may also be necessary to purchase anti-sway bars or weight transfer bars, especially if you're pulling a longer trailer or if your tow vehicle has a shorter wheelbase.
With the wider trailers, tow vehicles must have extendable mirrors or the clamp on "trailer" mirrors.
The main issues for the tow vehicle is both towing capacity (combines weight of trailer and load, and tongue weight (amount of weight that is placed on the hitch by the trailer).
Be sure your vehicle's hitch is heavy enough for the trailer you want to pull and that your vehicle's towing capacity is designed to pull your loaded trailer.
It may also be necessary to purchase anti-sway bars or weight transfer bars, especially if you're pulling a longer trailer or if your tow vehicle has a shorter wheelbase.
With the wider trailers, tow vehicles must have extendable mirrors or the clamp on "trailer" mirrors.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 13
From: NW Arkansas
I've pulled the little trailer I mentioned in post #40 to Colorada 2 times, Nebraska 1 time, Maggie Valley 1 time. The bigger, tandem axle trailers are sure enough nicer, but I pull this with a 4.3 GMC Sonoma, and one time with the GMC Envoy, inline 6 cyl. It pulls real good, and except for hills, I don't even know it is back there. Yes it is tight when the bike is in it. But after loading the bike I get out of the trailer! And yes it isn't real tall. Have bumped my head too many times to mention. But, it does the job well and a bigger trailer would be a waste for my present set up. You can always go bigger and better; the question is: is it really necessary? My answer was no! I went with the smallest, lightest trailer to get the job done, and I have no regrets.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 93
Likes: 2
From: ND
That one foot wider and two feet longer makes a world of difference.