Srange problem after clutch cable swap
Thread Starter
|
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
Srange problem after clutch cable swap
Ok, I finished up an handlebar install on my 2012 Ultra Limited this week. Yesterday was the first ride and everything seem fine. I also changed out the front brake lines and installed a new clutch cable.
I adjusted the clutch per the manual and everything was good
Well today I got off early and decided to head towards my wires work to try and catch her when she passed by on her Dyna.
I see her pass she waves not knowing it was me yet and I pull a uturn and haul *** to catch her.
I get in 4th gear and at a high RPM. Not sure how high, I wasn't looking but had to be around 5k or more. Then all this sudden I hear pinging and tinging in the motor and the clutch starts slipping and rpm goes up bike bike stays at a steady speed.
I let off of it and catch up to the wife at the next light. I took off from the light and hit the rev limiter thru 4th gear and right before time to shift, it starts that pinging sound again and feels like something is rattling around in the motor or tranny maybe.
It did not sound like an engine ping but more like something physically tapping something.
At normal riding, it shows no signs of anything wrong, just at high rpm.
The only thing I can think of is, when I re-filled the tranny after the cable swap, I filled it to the full mark when it was COLD. I did not mean to but it is what it is and I figured it would be fine.
I am waiting for it to cool down a bit and I am going to check the fluid hot and see where it is at.
But even so, would a tad too much tranny fluid cause what I described?
I adjusted the clutch per the manual and everything was good
Well today I got off early and decided to head towards my wires work to try and catch her when she passed by on her Dyna.
I see her pass she waves not knowing it was me yet and I pull a uturn and haul *** to catch her.
I get in 4th gear and at a high RPM. Not sure how high, I wasn't looking but had to be around 5k or more. Then all this sudden I hear pinging and tinging in the motor and the clutch starts slipping and rpm goes up bike bike stays at a steady speed.
I let off of it and catch up to the wife at the next light. I took off from the light and hit the rev limiter thru 4th gear and right before time to shift, it starts that pinging sound again and feels like something is rattling around in the motor or tranny maybe.
It did not sound like an engine ping but more like something physically tapping something.
At normal riding, it shows no signs of anything wrong, just at high rpm.
The only thing I can think of is, when I re-filled the tranny after the cable swap, I filled it to the full mark when it was COLD. I did not mean to but it is what it is and I figured it would be fine.
I am waiting for it to cool down a bit and I am going to check the fluid hot and see where it is at.
But even so, would a tad too much tranny fluid cause what I described?
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 534
Likes: 8
From: DeRidder, LA
What fluid did you use? Is there a tiny bit of play left in the lever?
Sounds like a false neutral or maybe improper clutch adjustment. When's the last time you adjusted the clutch? May double check your work. May have kept it too tight
Mike
Sounds like a false neutral or maybe improper clutch adjustment. When's the last time you adjusted the clutch? May double check your work. May have kept it too tight
Mike
Thread Starter
|
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
I loosened the clutch cable, then back off the lock nut on the clutch pack. Turned the allen bolt till it just starts to snug then backed it off 3/4 turn and retightenned the lock nut.
Adjust the cable and all seemed fine. In fact all still seem to be fine except when I hit hi rpm's in 4th or 5th.
And this was done 2 days ago and I adjusted the cable till I have 1/8 play measured where the cable enters the clutch perch.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,473
Likes: 15
From: River City Western Canada
This is method I use
Clutch Adjustment
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
Clutch Adjustment
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
Thread Starter
|
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
Ok so here is an update.
I happened to be at the dealer today. I had a leaking derby cover that I could not figure out why it was leaking. Even after removing it and retorqing it 4 times, it still leaks.
So I take it in and they find that my outer primary cover has a "casting mark" right where the seal is.
This is a whole other story and I will get to that later.
On to my problem. I had the tech check my clutch adjustment and see what he thought. He tells me it is adjusted fine but he went ahead and readjusted it how he would do it and took it for a test ride after "jerry rigging" my derby cover with silicon.
So I get on the bike and hit the highway. I run thru the gears and when I hit 5th gear and hit the throttle, it instantly slips its *** off. Absolutly no grab at all in 5th gear???
I take the next exit and head back to the dealer. I told the tech to take the bike out and RIDE the god damn thing!
He comes back 20 minutes later and the verdict is, my clutch is shot!
Maybe I am too hard on the bike, I don't know.
So now I am researching clutches and trying to figure out what to go with as a replacement.
Whatever I go with, it will be the baddest MFer I can find. I want something that can pull ****ing stumps, that OEM clutch is a POS!
I happened to be at the dealer today. I had a leaking derby cover that I could not figure out why it was leaking. Even after removing it and retorqing it 4 times, it still leaks.
So I take it in and they find that my outer primary cover has a "casting mark" right where the seal is.
This is a whole other story and I will get to that later.
On to my problem. I had the tech check my clutch adjustment and see what he thought. He tells me it is adjusted fine but he went ahead and readjusted it how he would do it and took it for a test ride after "jerry rigging" my derby cover with silicon.
So I get on the bike and hit the highway. I run thru the gears and when I hit 5th gear and hit the throttle, it instantly slips its *** off. Absolutly no grab at all in 5th gear???
I take the next exit and head back to the dealer. I told the tech to take the bike out and RIDE the god damn thing!
He comes back 20 minutes later and the verdict is, my clutch is shot!
Maybe I am too hard on the bike, I don't know.
So now I am researching clutches and trying to figure out what to go with as a replacement.
Whatever I go with, it will be the baddest MFer I can find. I want something that can pull ****ing stumps, that OEM clutch is a POS!
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 23
From: Mishawaka,Indiana
I pulled a 400lb trailer 3000 miles with my limited with no issues, stock clutches with the heavier spring hold up well (all 103's have the heavier spring) my 00 fatboy with 90hp-100tq and passes on the drag strip still has stock clutch with a se 330lb spring. are you sure a ball didn't jump out of place when you had the side cover off to install cable? Mike
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
I pulled a 400lb trailer 3000 miles with my limited with no issues, stock clutches with the heavier spring hold up well (all 103's have the heavier spring) my 00 fatboy with 90hp-100tq and passes on the drag strip still has stock clutch with a se 330lb spring. are you sure a ball didn't jump out of place when you had the side cover off to install cable? Mike
Plus, if one of them fell out, I would have very inconsistent clutch operation.
At least that's how I think it is anyway.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mattHD
Softail Models
8
Mar 15, 2011 03:31 PM