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How’s your 107 doing?

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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
$1190.00 plus shipping. Price goes up if you get fancy H beams and not the import one's.
Is that you send him the crank and you install it back in the cases?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bagman1
Is that you send him the crank and you install it back in the cases?
Yes. I did all the R&R. Thats just the crank work.

 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #33  
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Dropped my '11 SG off at the builder March 10th and my 107" build is still waiting on the Level B heads to be completed ... according to Jamie at FM, they (and the rest of the parts) should go out today! Yep, the three week lead time FM is quoting is pretty accurate. Hopefully, I will be picking her up next week if not sooner.

Started out with 87 rwhp/103 rwt with an SE Stage 2 kit and going to FM's 107" with 10.5:1 CR, TW-777's, Level B's, FM's TB port & A/C backing plate match, 32-tooth to 30-tooth tranny sprocket, dyno break-in, base line dyno, dyno tune and delivery.

No crank welding, but, the build as well as the bike will be covered by the remaining one-year factory "bumper-to-bumper" warranty.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #34  
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Well, I can tell you my build cost was at least double, but I went with the H Beams, DT 3 stage oil pump and timken bearing.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #35  
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Not to start any crap. My 107 did good for about 40k until it got sold. What I am wondering about is this... has anybody with a big mileage 107 build checked compression and leak down lately? After like 40k miles?

Reason I ask is some of us, when we throw the higher mileage 107s on a wheel, they seem to make less power. Wondering if ring pack is getting beat up. Russel has seen this, also.

I LIKED my 107 every bit as much as the 120r. I would have done ANOTHER 107, but the 120r came in more cost effective for me. (... or so I thought AT FIRST...I tend to do things NOT half way and it costs me dearly at times). In town kind of stuff, riding on twisty two lanes, no difference between the two. The extra cubes come into play BIG TIME when doing over 80 on the slab. Giving Wingers the slap down, while in cruise, on big hills IS fun, BTW!
 

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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 11:55 PM
  #36  
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There is no question that a simple 107" build can get out of control fast, when you factor in any bottom end work, throttle body, beefier clutch and exhaust. A 120R crate motor seems to be a very good option, when the expense of a TB, Clutch and exhaust cancel themselves out. I'll be very happy if I get 40K miles out of my 107". A 107" rebuild is a nice winter project.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:03 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by notrailers
A 107" rebuild is a nice winter project.
yeah ive got no issues rebuilding my top end. takes about a day
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #38  
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I don't know if the 107 kit is the cause or not, but my bottom end is shot.
Have not torn it down yet. The indy that just did my inner primary bearing and new compensator say it sounds like crank bearings. They don't have a good motor guy so I picked it up.
did the 107 kit at about 10,000 miles, currently has 20,000.
Will let you know soon.
Dave
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #39  
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15,000 on 107 that FM built and dynoed. No porting or crank work: 106/121. No heat issues. I tour a lot and ride it hard. Super happy with it.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #40  
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Put 10,000 miles on a 107 build. Loved the motor. 117 HP/123TQ. Took to drag strip a few times and rode it hard. Ended up twisting the crank. Split cases, installed a S & S factory welded crank and a few other new pieces and now run an awesome 124 torque motor. As I have said before on other threads, the reason there are a lot of big bore motors out there with stock cranks and no issues is most people talk a big game but rarely run the bike hard. My advice if you plan to actually put a smile on your face and twist the throttle is to spend the money on the bottom end.
 
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