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First, everyone thank you very very much for taking time to reply to my thread. Here is what i learned today.
I removed the horn and started the bike, letting it idle. I took a can of carb cleaner and sprayed from behind the horn bracket on the flange on the rear jug, no change. Repeated the same on the front jug and the idle sputtered and got worse, when I stopped it cleaned up, when I repeated the spray it did it again.
So...Im thinking gasket leak or it needs to be tightened. Now, its dang tight in there and I didnt see any way to get to the bolts to try to tighten, so I guess its either off to the dealer or buy a manual and try it myself. Doent not look to be a big job, but there looks to be several things that need to be removed.
Anyway, I will keep everyone posted.
Thanks!
First, everyone thank you very very much for taking time to reply to my thread. Here is what i learned today.
I removed the horn and started the bike, letting it idle. I took a can of carb cleaner and sprayed from behind the horn bracket on the flange on the rear jug, no change. Repeated the same on the front jug and the idle sputtered and got worse, when I stopped it cleaned up, when I repeated the spray it did it again.
So...Im thinking gasket leak or it needs to be tightened. Now, its dang tight in there and I didnt see any way to get to the bolts to try to tighten, so I guess its either off to the dealer or buy a manual and try it myself. Doent not look to be a big job, but there looks to be several things that need to be removed.
Anyway, I will keep everyone posted.
Thanks!
The gaskets need replacing, don't bother wasting your time trying to tighten the flange, pick up some new gaskets at the dealer. It's not a hard job just takes a little time. They are a bugger sometimes and often not done correctly on the 1st try. They are a donut ring type gasket that is compressed between the intake the flange and the head. A service manual is worth it's weight in gold about 80.00 new or 40.00 in the for sale section of the forums if you can find one.
Last edited by GaugeMods; Apr 19, 2013 at 01:51 PM.
Thanks GaugeMods......Id love to think I could do it, I took the ac and backplate off today just looking around. Its tight, looks to be that the tank would need to come off, or unbolt the back and raise it some. I think I will take a look for a manual. I REALLY appreciate your comments. HD would prolly want a couple hundred bucks to replace, lol. And as a bonus for me....Im betting that my PCIII map is good and if the gaskets were replaced it would be ready to go.
Thanks again!
Thanks GaugeMods......Id love to think I could do it, I took the ac and backplate off today just looking around. Its tight, looks to be that the tank would need to come off, or unbolt the back and raise it some. I think I will take a look for a manual. I REALLY appreciate your comments. HD would prolly want a couple hundred bucks to replace, lol. And as a bonus for me....Im betting that my PCIII map is good and if the gaskets were replaced it would be ready to go.
Thanks again!
You can do it, just take your time, get a manual, it will pay for itself with just this job and if it leaks the 1st time you try, it will just be easier the 2nd time around. and still be cheaper than if the dealer did it.
Harleys are one of the easiest bikes to work on, the motors are just crude 2 cylinder small block Chevys.... sort of.
I bought my manual here off the forums. I put a wanted to buy add. It was answered in a few days with some1 that was willing to get rid of theirs.
Last edited by GaugeMods; Apr 19, 2013 at 05:42 PM.
Once you get the backplate off you have the job 1/2 done of getting the intake out. Mark one of the injector wires so you don't mix them up, a wire tie for the front cylinder as a example.
Only the top bolts need to be removed on the flanges, the lower bolts only need to be loosened, the flange is cut so it can be removed without having to remove the bolts all the way.
a set of allen wrenches that are balled on the long end will make the job easier
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