2000 or 2001 FLHTCUI Question
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Spokane / CDA
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,173
From: Oxford, Nc
Yep, We have plenty of thoughts but get through the New Members intro and then ask about Ultra's in the Touring Section.
Welcome form NC!
Edit: Well since we're talking about it here: I have a 2000 1550cc Stage II Road Glide with 126,000 miles. The only two weak spots were the cam chain tensioners, ( all Twin Cams 99 - 06 (and mine now has gear drive cams,)) and the MMI Injection quirks you'll read about below. My cold idle circuits are indeed quirky and have to be adjusted from winter to summer riding. When hot, the bike has always run perfectly, and it's got 126,000 miles on it.) Most guys choose to live with the quirks.
If you have a problem with your injection, the options are to swap out the injection for a carb, ( but remember your Ultra has cruise control,) or consider a Power Commander or best yet a replacement ECM from S&S Cycle called the VFI wich makes the system as good as any out there regardless of year.
The best news is the cranks on 99 to 02 models. They are the only engines that come with a hot forged crank and a Timken Lefty Bearing to support it. (Newer bikes have cheaper roller bearings, and 05 and later have even cheaper cast cranks.)
Because of the crank alone I wont own a Harley big twin newer than '02. The other problems, if they show at all can all be addressed.
Good Luck!
Welcome form NC!
Edit: Well since we're talking about it here: I have a 2000 1550cc Stage II Road Glide with 126,000 miles. The only two weak spots were the cam chain tensioners, ( all Twin Cams 99 - 06 (and mine now has gear drive cams,)) and the MMI Injection quirks you'll read about below. My cold idle circuits are indeed quirky and have to be adjusted from winter to summer riding. When hot, the bike has always run perfectly, and it's got 126,000 miles on it.) Most guys choose to live with the quirks.
If you have a problem with your injection, the options are to swap out the injection for a carb, ( but remember your Ultra has cruise control,) or consider a Power Commander or best yet a replacement ECM from S&S Cycle called the VFI wich makes the system as good as any out there regardless of year.
The best news is the cranks on 99 to 02 models. They are the only engines that come with a hot forged crank and a Timken Lefty Bearing to support it. (Newer bikes have cheaper roller bearings, and 05 and later have even cheaper cast cranks.)
Because of the crank alone I wont own a Harley big twin newer than '02. The other problems, if they show at all can all be addressed.
Good Luck!
Last edited by Stiggy; Apr 21, 2013 at 04:41 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 46
I have a 1999 with the M&M FI, I can live with the quirks & have changed cam bearings to the better Timken's (Harley put in INA's that have half the needle bearing surface, sure wish I would have kept one of the INA's for pic). I think 2001 went to a 1" axle. May want to go in & check them if you get it along with cam chain tensioners. Just figure that in with the price of getting the bike when you make your decision.
Toby
Toby
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
As stated, the MM injection is nothing to write home about and has little support. Early 88s did have better cranks and bearings. '99s had real cam case problems, fixed under warranty. Need to watch cam chain tensioners on all twincams... Good luck!
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: S E Michigan
I had a 2001 FLHTCUI a few years back. The problem that I had was that the lifter rollers ate into the cam lobes at 44K miles. Discovered that when I had a winter project done to upgrade to the SE cam plate & oil pump. The stock suspension sux. Upgraded to Progressive 440's in the rear and Monotubes in the front with a Touring Link underneath along with a Glide-Pro polyurethane front motor mount. Changed cams to a mild SE 204 cam with a PC III USB. Dynoed and ran & rode very well squeaking out 37.5 mpg.
Last edited by kdfcogwheel; Apr 21, 2013 at 01:47 PM. Reason: to update mileage
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 14
From: Idaho
I have a 2000 Ultra that for runs well, but took some work to get there. PC3 USB is a must if you give with a MMI EFI. Plus an owners manual on how to set to the cold and hot idles.
If I had it to do over I would of found one with a Carb. I didn't do my homework to the point I should of & learned the hard way about how touchy the MMI can be to set up.
If I had it to do over I would of found one with a Carb. I didn't do my homework to the point I should of & learned the hard way about how touchy the MMI can be to set up.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,980
Likes: 5,218
From: Michigan
I had a 2000 Ultra that ran flawlessly up to about 77,000 miles although I did have a 1550 big bore kit, and new cam chain adjusters, and cam bearings installed (by my choice) at approximately 39,000 miles.
Having bought this bike new, I received a letter from H-D extending the warranty on the cam bearings to 50,000 miles but I never experienced any issues with the cam bearings.
At 77,000 miles or so I started having issues (spitting, sputtering, coughing) maintaining a constant speed and RPM.
The can chaim tensioners were worn pretty badly so I had the S/E Hyd Cam Chain Tensioner Kit installed just as a maintainence issue.
After replacing the intake seals, TPS, plugs, plug wires, my indy determined that the Engine Temperature Swith was defective and replaced it and then the bike "coded" a problem with the ECM.
After replacing the ECM (non-original) the bike ran much better but I still had an occasional problem when trying to start the bike.
I sold the bike last September and the new owner tells me that he's switching it over to a S/S EFI system.
Having bought this bike new, I received a letter from H-D extending the warranty on the cam bearings to 50,000 miles but I never experienced any issues with the cam bearings.
At 77,000 miles or so I started having issues (spitting, sputtering, coughing) maintaining a constant speed and RPM.
The can chaim tensioners were worn pretty badly so I had the S/E Hyd Cam Chain Tensioner Kit installed just as a maintainence issue.
After replacing the intake seals, TPS, plugs, plug wires, my indy determined that the Engine Temperature Swith was defective and replaced it and then the bike "coded" a problem with the ECM.
After replacing the ECM (non-original) the bike ran much better but I still had an occasional problem when trying to start the bike.
I sold the bike last September and the new owner tells me that he's switching it over to a S/S EFI system.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Upper Midwest
Bought a used '01 in early 2011 with 26k. I did some cosmetic upgrades and had a minor issue with low idle that my indy mechanic was able to sort out for me. Only other minor issue was that we were never able to work out the cruise kicking off for no reason. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. I personally had no issues with the FI on mine. Mileage was ballpark 40mpg.
I had an exhaust issue crop up twice. The first was a hiccup with an occasional pop that turned out the be a crack in a weld where the front header pipe connected to the rear header pipe on the right side by the floorboard. Replaced that and about 6 months later had a crack show up in the weld of the Y pipe off the rear cylinder. Mechanic said that he's seen it happen a couple times and had no explanation for it. He said you could line up 100 scoots and 1 of them would crack the exhaust weld. If it did it once, it would do it again. I put on a set of Duals after the second crack and had no problems after that except it was gutless off the line. It was great at highway speed though pulled really good for a stock 88" (hiflow and stage 1 map)
Last thing I did was replace the cam chain tensioner on it about 1600 miles (at about 37k) before I bought my new one. It ate the plastic off the tensioner but I caught it right away. Mechanic couldn't find a mark on the chain when he replaced it and obviously no metal shavings.
I upgraded to the new one for the 103" and the 6-speed. Made money on my trade-in too. That helped.
For the most part I was happy with it and it was a good starting point. Got me into a Harley and got the Mrs hooked on riding again.
I had an exhaust issue crop up twice. The first was a hiccup with an occasional pop that turned out the be a crack in a weld where the front header pipe connected to the rear header pipe on the right side by the floorboard. Replaced that and about 6 months later had a crack show up in the weld of the Y pipe off the rear cylinder. Mechanic said that he's seen it happen a couple times and had no explanation for it. He said you could line up 100 scoots and 1 of them would crack the exhaust weld. If it did it once, it would do it again. I put on a set of Duals after the second crack and had no problems after that except it was gutless off the line. It was great at highway speed though pulled really good for a stock 88" (hiflow and stage 1 map)
Last thing I did was replace the cam chain tensioner on it about 1600 miles (at about 37k) before I bought my new one. It ate the plastic off the tensioner but I caught it right away. Mechanic couldn't find a mark on the chain when he replaced it and obviously no metal shavings.
I upgraded to the new one for the 103" and the 6-speed. Made money on my trade-in too. That helped.
For the most part I was happy with it and it was a good starting point. Got me into a Harley and got the Mrs hooked on riding again.