Second try to find electrical issue.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Colorado
Great advice.
Just curious....were you upset with the $100 the dealer charged you? Sounds like they put lots of hours in the troubleshooting and only charged you for about an hour or so. IMO they didn't rip you off, sounds like they were sympathetic and tried to be fair.
Just curious....were you upset with the $100 the dealer charged you? Sounds like they put lots of hours in the troubleshooting and only charged you for about an hour or so. IMO they didn't rip you off, sounds like they were sympathetic and tried to be fair.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 45
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From: Missouri
Is there a way you can pull all the fuses, except the ones necessary to run the bike, and run it down the road for your test ride? Try to isolate which circuit is doing it by elimination. If it does it only after you reintroduce your sound system, then you know where to start chasing sparks. If it does it when you only have the systems necessary to run the bike, then you have narrowed your search greatly. A multi meter with an amp meter can be your best friend. Just my $.02.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, UT. Dushore, Pa.
I had ignition fuse problem and it turned out to be in the right handlebar switch wires. I have to park my bike in front of my car so I have to do full left lock to park and back out of my space which pulls on those wires. You mentioned left hand turns, is that when you notice it ? You need to make sure those wires are not pinched inside the housing and that they are in the grove on the handlebar. While running try pulling on these wires. Another trick is to take a rubber hammer and tap on different areas. A good tech can show you the wires on the diagram that would blow the ignition fuse. Most of them I believe are in the handlebars or the iginiton switch.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
From: Central Fl.
A while back a lot of people were having issues with the wiring to the top end of the engine (injectors etc) because at the factory they weren't giving enough slack where they zip tied to the frame. When I had the top end of my '03 apart I noticed that the zip ties were so tight they almost crimped some of the wiring. Something to check anyway.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 215
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From: quebec canada
second
hi .what fuse you blow.accessory or some other.fuse.had that probleme long time ago.check wire in nacelle.if you turns left you pull 1 wire.also check cig.lighter if not loose. do not speak of wire but thight to the inner fairing mrfuji
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Colorado
How handy are with a dvom. It sounds like you MIGHT have a wire hanging on by one strand, or corrosion in a connector. If you do a LOADED volt test it will show you a weakness compared to a volt test. In other words you can be getting great voltage but not supplying amps. This will cause it to act like this as well.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 72
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From: Colorado
Is there a way you can pull all the fuses, except the ones necessary to run the bike, and run it down the road for your test ride? Try to isolate which circuit is doing it by elimination. If it does it only after you reintroduce your sound system, then you know where to start chasing sparks. If it does it when you only have the systems necessary to run the bike, then you have narrowed your search greatly. A multi meter with an amp meter can be your best friend. Just my $.02.
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
I had ignition fuse problem and it turned out to be in the right handlebar switch wires. I have to park my bike in front of my car so I have to do full left lock to park and back out of my space which pulls on those wires. You mentioned left hand turns, is that when you notice it ? You need to make sure those wires are not pinched inside the housing and that they are in the grove on the handlebar. While running try pulling on these wires. Another trick is to take a rubber hammer and tap on different areas. A good tech can show you the wires on the diagram that would blow the ignition fuse. Most of them I believe are in the handlebars or the iginiton switch.
Lke I mentioned before, I just keep getting the feeling something is overheating then overamping. Let it cool off and it is good again.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,296
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From: Cheltenham, UK
When I first started reading your OP temperature seemed like the obvious variable that was giving you the short duration of run time....
Lets assume for now that he bike shop is being straight and did the 50 miles on the dyno - with no problem. This, coupled with your later answer that it happens on the road, leads me to consider it could also be a vibration issue. This also fits the symptoms. Possibly a loose earth screw or a plug which has worked slightly loose and is arcing internally.
You may not have managed to notice a pattern yet, but I wonder if it is when you are hitting a bump. Maybe if you had a section of road with speed humps or potholes ideally you could go over these with the bike still relatively cold.
Problem is, still a pig to find
Lets assume for now that he bike shop is being straight and did the 50 miles on the dyno - with no problem. This, coupled with your later answer that it happens on the road, leads me to consider it could also be a vibration issue. This also fits the symptoms. Possibly a loose earth screw or a plug which has worked slightly loose and is arcing internally.
You may not have managed to notice a pattern yet, but I wonder if it is when you are hitting a bump. Maybe if you had a section of road with speed humps or potholes ideally you could go over these with the bike still relatively cold.
Problem is, still a pig to find
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 45
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From: Missouri
