Did you look closely at your internal fuel lines and your fuel pressure regulator???

 

When my inner cam bearing came apart it acted the same way. Took out the motor as well. Good luck I hope it is something as simple as the coil.

 

I would run a compression test and it it is ok, I would put a timing light on the rear cylinder and see if it is firing steady. If this checks out and no vacuum leaks, I would suspect an injector. I also wouldn't use WD40 as it can get in connectors and cause havoc. I speak from experience. A propane torch not burning would be better. A vacuum leak and poor firing can cause the fire from the throttle body. I also have seen a blown head gasket kill a cylinder. It sounds like a bad exhaust leak, but can be covered by loud exhaust. The compression test will detect this. I also wouldn't go to far before looking in the cam chest as problems in there can wipe out the engine real quick.

 

Had an ignition module go south once and it was doing the same.
Quite possible that when cam chest was re-installed a wire might have been pinched and thru vibration caused a short.
Just something else to check.

 

Got home from Leesburg yesterday and pulled the engine codes and got only 2 codes P1353 and P1356 Front cylinder no combustion and rear cylinder no combustion. I started it once and both exhaust get hot so what is the code telling me?

 

Seen many posts on these codes. Most fix by checking plugs, plug wires, ecm to injector wire (near plugs), possible coil issue. It could be a intermittent problem due to a break in the wires for instance.

 

Ok finally got this problem solved. It turned out to be a cracked fuel pump. Not enough fuel pressure to keep it running. Thanks for all the help. Ben

 

Actually it was the fuel pressure regulator that had a crack in it. Any way back on the road again

 

Cool.