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How can I check the adjustment on my headlight without having 25' of level surface. My garage is only 20' deep and the drive starts to slope away at the garage entrance as well as the garage must slope too.
With my front axle at 25' my rear axle would be 6.5" below level and my front 5.5" below level. Say I set the rear tire on a board giving me about 1" more height it would justify the bike; could I then mark my alignment position on the wall 5.5" lower then the calculated height per the service manual and make necessary adjustments?
Makes perfect sense to me, that's what I would do.
How can I check the adjustment on my headlight without having 25' of level surface. My garage is only 20' deep and the drive starts to slope away at the garage entrance as well as the garage must slope too.
With my front axle at 25' my rear axle would be 6.5" below level and my front 5.5" below level. Say I set the rear tire on a board giving me about 1" more height it would justify the bike; could I then mark my alignment position on the wall 5.5"lower then the calculated height per the service manual and make necessary adjustments?
If your measurement is correct then I say it is a solid plan. I just did it outside with my car door as the backdrop. Did the tape markings on the door and adjusted accordingly. Do you own a car?
How can I check the adjustment on my headlight without having 25' of level surface. My garage is only 20' deep and the drive starts to slope away at the garage entrance as well as the garage must slope too.
With my front axle at 25' my rear axle would be 6.5" below level and my front 5.5" below level. Say I set the rear tire on a board giving me about 1" more height it would justify the bike; could I then mark my alignment position on the wall 5.5" lower then the calculated height per the service manual and make necessary adjustments?
with the board you have leveled your bike so it is 5.5 inches below the floor level of the wall 25 feet away. you were able to figure that out and do not know that yes the mark on the wall would be 5.5 lower.
does your manual tell you to adjust the high beam at the mark like mine does?
YOU NEED TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE REFRACTION OF LIGHT FOR CHANGING THE DISTANCE. HERE IS A SIMPLE FORMULA TO HELP:
Given a normalized light vector l (pointing from the light source toward the surface) and a normalized plane normal vector n, one can work out the normalized reflected and refracted rays: Note: must be positive. Otherwise, use
Or, you could just ride the damn bike to some other place and do the adjustment there. I rode into town and pulled into a closed gas station and shined the light on the side of the building. There is no law that says you have to do it at home, unless you live in Maryland.
Now that I look at your sig pic, how about pointing your bike towards that fence, looks level enough and round about 25 feet or so, or you could find the side of a building with a level empty lot, just take your tools with and knock it out right quick. Good luck.
Fence may work that is the most level spot I have, I could even strap a sheet of plywood to it. Either that or I saw the school around the corner has a nice brick wall along the parking lot that would work.
Did mine the other day on the garage door, still doesn't seem like I have a very good spread of light. Flashed between hi and low behind a truck at stoplight and could see the bulb change left to right, should it be top to bottom? Do I just need a new bulb?
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