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Adjusting Headlight on a slope

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Old May 8, 2013 | 07:52 AM
  #21  
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And when you get it perfectly aligned as per oem specs, go realign it so it points where you actually need it. Which involves nothing more than riding at night while carrying a screwdriver to adjust it when you pull over. Do it a few times until you get the best compromise between high and low illumination.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
And when you get it perfectly aligned as per oem specs, go realign it so it points where you actually need it. Which involves nothing more than riding at night while carrying a screwdriver to adjust it when you pull over. Do it a few times until you get the best compromise between high and low illumination.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 42gunner
YOU NEED TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE REFRACTION OF LIGHT FOR CHANGING THE DISTANCE. HERE IS A SIMPLE FORMULA TO HELP:

Given a normalized light vector l (pointing from the light source toward the surface) and a normalized plane normal vector n, one can work out the normalized reflected and refracted rays:
Note: must be positive. Otherwise, use
Amazing
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ropes
Fence may work that is the most level spot I have, I could even strap a sheet of plywood to it. Either that or I saw the school around the corner has a nice brick wall along the parking lot that would work.
There is your answer
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Wow who the hell has the time to dream this stuff up?
Put a screwdriver in your pocket and go for a ride, stop and tweak until you can see without blinding oncoming traffic. All that aiming on the wall stuff is ok as long as you do it when there is no lunar tide or eclipse or during the vernal equinox or deer or sea turtle hatching season.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Florida Swamp Yankee
Wow who the hell has the time to dream this stuff up?
Put a screwdriver in your pocket and go for a ride, stop and tweak until you can see without blinding oncoming traffic. All that aiming on the wall stuff is ok as long as you do it when there is no lunar tide or eclipse or during the vernal equinox or deer or sea turtle hatching season.
I can't see at night to tell if they are right or not so figured if I have them per OEM they should not be bothering the other drivers out there. I use the rumble strips on the edge of the road to keep me on the road!
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 42gunner
YOU NEED TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE REFRACTION OF LIGHT FOR CHANGING THE DISTANCE. HERE IS A SIMPLE FORMULA TO HELP:

Given a normalized light vector l (pointing from the light source toward the surface) and a normalized plane normal vector n, one can work out the normalized reflected and refracted rays:
Note: must be positive. Otherwise, use
Somebody better wake up Einstein ... I think we're gonna need his help on this one!!!
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #28  
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[QUOTE=2ropes;11268167]I can't see at night to tell if they are right or not so figured if I have them per OEM they should not be bothering the other drivers out there. I use the rumble strips on the edge of the road to keep me on the road![

Sound like you have them aimed right down at the road if you can't see well at all. If you have somebody to hold the bike up while on the road or in a parking lot stand in front of the bike with the light beam hitting you. Then back up the distance the book says you should be. Adjust the beam to where you need it and go for a ride. Once your vision improves as you figure out where the light is going a tweak in or out on the screw will bring it in to where it best suits you.

It helps to have a mini mag light to shine in on the adjuster screw while doing all this, and having the darkest possible place to do it in. Look for some abandoned commercial real estate that has a wall that you can shine on.


Good luck!!
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #29  
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Works on the flat, as long as the slope is flat it should work fine.
1) measure the distance ( A ) from the floor to the center of your headlight.
2) subtract 2" from that measurement ( "B" ).
3) Place a piece of tape "B" inches from the floor on a vertical wall.
4) Measure back away from the taped wall 17 FEET. Place your bike with its headlight at the 17 foot mark pointing at the tape on the wall.
5) Turn on your headlight - the top of the beam should be at the tape mark on the wall. If too high or low, there should be beam adjust screws on the headlight housing.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #30  
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The best headlight adjustment method I've found is to ride at night with a screwdriver in my pocket and to adjust it, then put the HD trim ring back on, which is a royal pain in the ***.
 
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