Down shift or brake?
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville
1. Release throttle, which slows down the bike immediately (I run in 3000+ rpms)
2. Touch foot brake, just kinda rest my foot on it but don't mash
3. Slowly squeeze hand brake
1-3 happens in under a second.
When the gear I'm in isn't doing anything to slow the engine, I downshift. I would guess around 2000rpm, but I've never looked. I continue this until stopped. Each downshift, I squeeze the hand brake a little tighter. Foot is still just resting.
If I have to stop FAST, I accelerate the downshifting and squeeze the hand brake a little bit faster, but not enough to activate ABS. If ABS activates, it will slow your stop time down.
This has worked well for me.
2. Touch foot brake, just kinda rest my foot on it but don't mash
3. Slowly squeeze hand brake
1-3 happens in under a second.
When the gear I'm in isn't doing anything to slow the engine, I downshift. I would guess around 2000rpm, but I've never looked. I continue this until stopped. Each downshift, I squeeze the hand brake a little tighter. Foot is still just resting.
If I have to stop FAST, I accelerate the downshifting and squeeze the hand brake a little bit faster, but not enough to activate ABS. If ABS activates, it will slow your stop time down.
This has worked well for me.
Last edited by Clubber; Jun 5, 2013 at 10:51 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 12
From: DOWN SOUTH
I have always went thru the gears and lightly used the brakes when stopping, unless its a quick stop, then its mostly brake while I skip a couple of gears with the clutch in so I will be in the right gear for the speed in case I need to get out real quick.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 195
From: Ohio
No. brakes are for slowing and stopping the bike and there is no loss of control if you know what you are doing. I've never locked the brakes on any of my streetbikes and it is impossible on my HD as it has anti-lock. What IS dangerous is over-reliance on engine braking or downshifting late into a turn causing the rear to skid.
I do allow engine braking to slow the bike to an extent and I make sure I downshift as I slow so that the bike is in the right gear for the speed.
If you've ever raced, you'll know that you have to use the brakes to carry optimum speed as long as possible before the turn.
there is no problem with slowing down gradually using engine braking, but I still use the brakes as well for the taillight if the speed reduction is significant and/or there are vehicles behind me.
2 pennies,
Dave
I do allow engine braking to slow the bike to an extent and I make sure I downshift as I slow so that the bike is in the right gear for the speed.
If you've ever raced, you'll know that you have to use the brakes to carry optimum speed as long as possible before the turn.
there is no problem with slowing down gradually using engine braking, but I still use the brakes as well for the taillight if the speed reduction is significant and/or there are vehicles behind me.
2 pennies,
Dave
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,191
Likes: 2,423
From: USA
I find using the brakes for slowing & stopping gives me the smoothest most controlled results. Be it a car, bike or truck. So that's what I use.
I will also be downshifting, but it is incidental to the actual slowing. I'm just matching the engine to the vehicle speed, so I can engage and pull away if I need to.
I will also be downshifting, but it is incidental to the actual slowing. I'm just matching the engine to the vehicle speed, so I can engage and pull away if I need to.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: SO Cal
could not have said it better! being in the right gear could save your hide
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 418
From: South Carolina
Put me in the 'both' category - I roll off the throttle, then downshift as I'm slowing...if you match revs, there's virtually no drivetrain lash. Also, both brakes but more juice on the front, unless there are traction issues then I use the rear heavier.
It's all so ingrained after 36 years that I really had to stop and think about what I do!!
It's all so ingrained after 36 years that I really had to stop and think about what I do!!
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 17
From: Mid West
I'm a 'both' category most of the time, as stated roll off throttle, downshift, be on both brakes even as I had to learn to two finger the front on the bagger as opposed to the others I have ridden. I prefer to have the engine help to slow the bike and take some load off the brakes.
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Joe Kucinski
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 430
Likes: 2
From: Dirty City
Nothing wrong with downshifting, but don't engine brake for the simple reason that it wears out your rear even more quickly than it already wears out. Use your front brake to slow down and your rear tire to speed up--distribute the wear more evenly.
However, engine braking will not damage your transmission or clutch. The reason for downshifting while slowing is to be in the proper gear.
However, engine braking will not damage your transmission or clutch. The reason for downshifting while slowing is to be in the proper gear.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach
As far as I know, engine braking uses nearly no fuel since because the air intake is nearly closed, the ECU makes the injectors to send only the smallest possible amount of fuel.
From what I've understood of engine braking, the engine brakes because of the vacuum created by the lack of air at the intake and I guess that is why engine braking can be noisy since the flow of air is troubled and is probably at a pressure lower than the ambient pressure. (I don't know what happens exactly in the exhaust)
But the oil pump continues to run and lub, and the amount of detonated fuel is low so the stress on the piston/cylinder should be lower than when running at the same RPM in 'normal condition' (going forward by burning fuel).
Also when braking with the engine, the load on the teeth of the gears is on the opposite side of the normal condition : if some gear fails it won't be because of engine braking but because of the wear of normal use. (unless you go into the RPM red zone)
Downshifting also helps keeping the brakes at a reasonable temp and is mandatory when riding/driving over mountains.
Years ago I had two clutch rebuilds on two BMW (bikes), but at the expected mileage (at about 70K km: the mechanic told me in both cases that this was a 'normal' mileage for a clutch rebuild ). I rode the first bike mainly in flat areas, the other mainly in mountainous areas and had to use a lot more engine braking/downshifting than on the first one. And I never had any engine problem (piston/segment/etc).
From what I've understood of engine braking, the engine brakes because of the vacuum created by the lack of air at the intake and I guess that is why engine braking can be noisy since the flow of air is troubled and is probably at a pressure lower than the ambient pressure. (I don't know what happens exactly in the exhaust)
But the oil pump continues to run and lub, and the amount of detonated fuel is low so the stress on the piston/cylinder should be lower than when running at the same RPM in 'normal condition' (going forward by burning fuel).
Also when braking with the engine, the load on the teeth of the gears is on the opposite side of the normal condition : if some gear fails it won't be because of engine braking but because of the wear of normal use. (unless you go into the RPM red zone)
Downshifting also helps keeping the brakes at a reasonable temp and is mandatory when riding/driving over mountains.
Years ago I had two clutch rebuilds on two BMW (bikes), but at the expected mileage (at about 70K km: the mechanic told me in both cases that this was a 'normal' mileage for a clutch rebuild ). I rode the first bike mainly in flat areas, the other mainly in mountainous areas and had to use a lot more engine braking/downshifting than on the first one. And I never had any engine problem (piston/segment/etc).
Personally I used both engine and brakes for slowing. Many times I will blip the throttle a tad while down shifting to match the engine speed to the downshifted gear, makes it easier on the clutch when re-engaging. Granted, it costs a little fuel but I give a ****.
For those of you that only use brakes..... We will both hit a 100K+ only you will have had a lot more brake jobs.