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My dads 2000 fatboy stumbles until its warmed up. I noticed it when he started it to let it warm up sounded like it was missing then it went away. His is a stock carb but has been jetted.
The 19and87 FLHS is a beautiful motorsikle! Congratulations! NOTE: that bike has an air assisted anti-dive fork (which is probably inoperable by now). DO NOT use a gas station air pump to fill it. You might want to look at this.... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...anti-dive.html Also, if you have to take the shroud off the front end, be VERY careful with the ignition switch / tower. They're easy to break and not easy to find.
Thanks for all the comments, finally found a good local mechanic who doesn't mind working on older bikes, turns out the carb needed the jets adjusted, and the inner primary seal will need replaced.
that model bike has the breather run off the oil pump.
the oil tank is above the motor.
when the bike is sitting, it may be possible that oil is leaking past a check ball into the motor, you start up and oil spewks out- usually it'll be a little foamy.
this is fixed by buying 2 check *****.
you remove the plug, use a magnet to take out the old check ball- see any corrosion on it?
toss that
place new ball in place.
use a punch and a drift to give the ball a good smack- only one!
remove the ball and toss it.
you have reformed the seat
now put the 2nd ball you bought in place and button it up.
The keihin butterfly carb is easily replaced with the Keihin CV carb which was stock 1990-2006.
you'll need a "mikuni manifold adapter" about $12 and 2 new throttle cables
My first leak on my 1990 bike was the trans oil seal, behind the front pulley. Primary has never leaked in over 20 years.
Yes I've had this leak too, and so has my buddy with his 1985 bagger. It's a pain in the **** to fix because the entire primary has to come off to get at that seal, and only after the sprocket comes off too. So check carefully where the leak is coming from. It may look like the inner primary seal, but if the trans is also wet, you can bet it's the seal on the trans shaft.
A tip for belt drive life....since you have all this stuff off, look carefully at both front and rear sprockets. Any wear showing and replace it. The rear is aluminum and it will wear first, and once it wears enough it will cut the belt. I've gone thru 3 belts in just over 200k. First was at 30k, then 80k. I finally got smart and I replace the rear whenever it looks worn and now it';s lasted over 120k.
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