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Going to do cams on a 2009 FLHTCU. With all the worry about chain tensioners going bad, I was wondering if anyone had converted to gear drive cams and just how difficult a job that is. Thanks for any input
there are few post from ppl converting on here. lately ive been looking into doing the same instead of going back with chain, subscribing to this thread
The hydraulic tensioners should be good for at least 100,000 miles. Check them at 50k, then at 25k increments after that. No sense in fixing something that isn't broken.
I've seen some get by with 003 runout, but that would be the max. Before you get all cranked up about gear drives, you should find out if your crank will even allow that based on runout
There are many threads about gear Drive Cam Conversions , use the search. Most of them are on 88" prior to HD releasing the Hyd Tensioner .
Its already been said but the HYd Tensioner set up is pretty maintaince free for 75,000-100,000 miles and most riders dont ever put that on their bikes anyway so you looking at upgrading a component that you will probably never have a problem with in your ownership lifetime anyway. The other ting is the runout , with much looser tolerences allowed on the 103" there is a good chance that your stock crank wont allow you to install or give good results with a Gear Drive .
I've seen some get by with 003 runout, but that would be the max. Before you get all cranked up about gear drives, you should find out if your crank will even allow that based on runout
No doubt. I checked mine recently and I'm between .006 and .007! No gears for me!
The biggest problem with gear drive cams is crank runout. No more than .001 with gear drive cams. A stock 103 probably has a bit more than that.
.003" used to be the factory runout spec for warranty purposes; that change to .012" in 2007 when the crank manufacture when off-shore. Gears can be run with more but .005" would be the limit for me. That much runout will likely require an U/S or O/S pinion gear and could generate some noise. What you have to watch for is future movement, i.e., if you check runout at 2500 miles and it's .0025" and you check again at 5000 miles and runout has increased to .0035", even though runout is acceptable for gears, no way would I install gears in that situation. If the crank continues to move, gear breaks a tooth and bad juju follows.
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