Front brake issues
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 17
From: Rosamond, Cali
The Brembo upgrade really makes a difference in braking. I ended up with about $700-750 into it (can't remember exactly...it's been a while) with the take-off Brembo calipers/lines (I received the stock lines, but already had braided-steel that I reused), 2008+ M/C (with 2008+ clutch-perch), and 11.8" floating disks. Not cheap. But man, the improvement in braking is very noticeable. I sourced everything off eBay. Lots of people upgrade the Brembos to chrome, and sell their take-offs...
If budget is the driver, then the advice to rebuild your M/C and go from there is the ticket. But if you can swing the 'upgrade' currently, you won't be sorry.
alan
If budget is the driver, then the advice to rebuild your M/C and go from there is the ticket. But if you can swing the 'upgrade' currently, you won't be sorry.
alan
Last edited by AlanStansbery; Jun 23, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 208
Likes: 8
From: Terlton, Ok
I recently had a similar issue with my '01 EGlide. I rebuilt both front calipers, front master cylinder, and went with a Goodrich stainless steel brake line. Front brakes are now solid with about 1/2" of total lever travel.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
So the last couple of weeks my front brakes on my 04 Road King went from being soft to almost completely dead. I bled the system a couple of times and finally flushed it completely and it still has the same issue. I can pump the front brake handle and it works great but once I ride a couple of feet it goes all the way down to the grip unless I pump it back up again.
Took it to the dealership today and they bled the system and still has the same issue. It feels a little bit better but they said they think I need a new master cylinder and new brake lines plus they wanted to pull and clean the calipers. $600 worth of parts and labor.
I'm thinking about just buying a master cylinder rebuild kit and either stainless front lines or just going with the stock black lines and cleaning out the calipers myself. Maybe $150 worth of parts and free labor.
Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions? I read up on turning the handlebars and holding the lever tight all night and then tapping the master cylinder but I just saw that suggestion today so maybe tonight I can try it. Otherwise I have flushed the system and tried to bleed it normally and with a vacuum bleeder.
Took it to the dealership today and they bled the system and still has the same issue. It feels a little bit better but they said they think I need a new master cylinder and new brake lines plus they wanted to pull and clean the calipers. $600 worth of parts and labor.
I'm thinking about just buying a master cylinder rebuild kit and either stainless front lines or just going with the stock black lines and cleaning out the calipers myself. Maybe $150 worth of parts and free labor.
Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions? I read up on turning the handlebars and holding the lever tight all night and then tapping the master cylinder but I just saw that suggestion today so maybe tonight I can try it. Otherwise I have flushed the system and tried to bleed it normally and with a vacuum bleeder.
One or both of your brake disc are bent or warped....When the bike rolls it is pushing the pistons back into the caliper...causing you to have to pump it back out...Check your brake disc.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
If that where true the brakes would pulse.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,968
Likes: 54
There is obviously a leak in teh system somewhere. The question is where? Could be a hairline crack in your master cylinder, or it could be the line or anything else. I'd get steel braided lines, a new master cylinder and go from there.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
Think about it...When the bent or warped portion of the disc passes through the caliper it forces the pistons back in their bores which requires the lever to be pumped to regain pressure...You stated that you have a good lever feel until you roll the bike...Then the lever goes to the bar...I have dealt with this situation many times after people gave up bleeding brakes and replacing the master cylinder...This usually happens after someone changes a tire and manages to bend a disc...If you can jack the front of your bike up and then pump up your brakes...Then spin your front wheel slowly while watching your disc...I'll bet you will find a tight spot when doing so...That will be where it starts pushing the pistons back into the caliper...I am just trying to save you money and lost time riding.
Last edited by geezer glide 56; Jun 24, 2013 at 06:22 PM. Reason: ..
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
Think about it...When the bent or warped portion of the disc passes through the caliper it forces the pistons back in their bores which requires the lever to be pumped to regain pressure...You stated that you have a good lever feel until you roll the bike...Then the lever goes to the bar...I have dealt with this situation many times after people gave up bleeding brakes and replacing the master cylinder...This usually happens after someone changes a tire and manages to bend a disc...If you can jack the front of your bike up and then pump up your brakes...Then spin your front wheel slowly while watching your disc...I'll bet you will find a tight spot when doing so...That will be where it starts pushing the pistons back into the caliper...I am just trying to save you money and lost time riding.