Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Front brake issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:07 PM
  #21  
Kadorja's Avatar
Kadorja
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
Default

Originally Posted by Mr. Mike
All good information. My M/C gave up the ghost at 15K. Same descriptions as the OP.
What was the cure for your bike?
 
Reply
Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
jdvorchak's Avatar
jdvorchak
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: East Alton, IL
Default

I had the same thing happen to my 2000 Dyna. No amount of bleeding would fix it. I asked a HD mechanic and he asked if the tires were changed recently. I said yes. He then told me that the problem was when they pushed the pads back they didn't clean the pistons. Now they are sticking and actually pulling the pads back away from the rotors. I took the calipers off, left the pads in there and pumped the lever until I saw the pads actually move and stay put. Then took spray brake cleaner and cleaned the pistons. Pushed the pads back and mounted the calipers back. Problem solved for $3 worth of brake cleaner.
 
Reply
Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #23  
Kadorja's Avatar
Kadorja
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
Default

Originally Posted by jdvorchak
I had the same thing happen to my 2000 Dyna. No amount of bleeding would fix it. I asked a HD mechanic and he asked if the tires were changed recently. I said yes. He then told me that the problem was when they pushed the pads back they didn't clean the pistons. Now they are sticking and actually pulling the pads back away from the rotors. I took the calipers off, left the pads in there and pumped the lever until I saw the pads actually move and stay put. Then took spray brake cleaner and cleaned the pistons. Pushed the pads back and mounted the calipers back. Problem solved for $3 worth of brake cleaner.

Good info.. I did notice the right side caliper has more of the pistons showing than the left side. If I have time in the morning I'll spray them down and give them a good cleaning with a brush. If anything at least they will work a little better.
 
Reply
Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #24  
jdvorchak's Avatar
jdvorchak
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: East Alton, IL
Default

Just spraying them down wont do a thing. The problem is that the square seal in the caliper is stuck to the piston. When you pull the lever the piston moves but the seal pulls it back. Sorry but you have to take the calipers off, then, while the pads are still mounted to keep the piston from popping all the way out, pump the lever until the piston actually moves and stays there. As you first pull the brake lever you'll be able to see the piston move but when you release the lever you can see the seal actually pull it back. You have to pump the lever until the piston moves past the "stuck" part. Then clean it with brake cleaner and a soft brush. Like an old tooth brush or old paint brush. Never use a metal brush! When you have it clean push the pads back with a screwdriver or similar so you can put the caliper back over the rotor. Good luck!
 
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2013 | 03:57 AM
  #25  
geezer glide 56's Avatar
geezer glide 56
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
Default

Originally Posted by Kadorja
It would need to be squeezed to regain pressure not completely pumped back up. The pistons pushing back in would press back on the lever and you would feel it. It just doesn't make sense to me how it would be a bad rotor out of nowhere. If the brakes need to be pumped then air has to be getting into the system. I haven't had any issues spinning the tire with the bike jacked up as of lately either. I can pump the brake and hold it with full pressure from any speed to a complete stop. I'll take another look at the rotors but they haven't had a chance to get warped. I'm not losing any riding time with the weather here anyways.
I hope you find your problem...Just trying to explain what I have learned from experience...I do this for a living...Good Luck!
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2013 | 12:44 PM
  #26  
Kadorja's Avatar
Kadorja
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
Default

Originally Posted by geezer glide 56
I hope you find your problem...Just trying to explain what I have learned from experience...I do this for a living...Good Luck!

Well I for one owe you an apology. I never thought I could have a warped rotor without any feedback in the lever but my right side rotor is bent at one spot. I did notice before that the pistons on that side where more visible than the other side but never thought much of it. I guess before with brake cleaner on the rotors it spun very freely and didn't bind but once it cleaned off you can definitely feel where it grabs. I took a flashlight and you can see where part of the rotor completely loses contact with some of the brake pad and pushes the pad back in.

New rotors are on order right now. Some nice looking stainless ones that I think would go well with the spoked wheels. Not sure if I want to get different pads or just keep what I have. The pads still have some life left in them.
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #27  
Kadorja's Avatar
Kadorja
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Likes: 159
Default

Well crap I just ordered the new rotors and my dad said he would overnight his old set down from his 2010 Street Glide. At least I should have a set on by July 4th.
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #28  
geezer glide 56's Avatar
geezer glide 56
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
Default

Originally Posted by Kadorja
Well I for one owe you an apology. I never thought I could have a warped rotor without any feedback in the lever but my right side rotor is bent at one spot. I did notice before that the pistons on that side where more visible than the other side but never thought much of it. I guess before with brake cleaner on the rotors it spun very freely and didn't bind but once it cleaned off you can definitely feel where it grabs. I took a flashlight and you can see where part of the rotor completely loses contact with some of the brake pad and pushes the pad back in.

New rotors are on order right now. Some nice looking stainless ones that I think would go well with the spoked wheels. Not sure if I want to get different pads or just keep what I have. The pads still have some life left in them.

That's great I'm glad you got it sorted out...Maybe you can share that info at the shop that looked at it and perhaps save someone some unnecessary expense of buying parts they don't need....Be safe ...Have a good one.
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2013 | 07:48 PM
  #29  
Bill03E's Avatar
Bill03E
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 20
From: Indy
Default

I clean my caliper pistons often, I find that a 1/2" craftsman ratchet handle holds the pistons perfectly before they come out. One side at a time take a caliper off ,take the pads out, put the handle in there pump up the brakes , spray with brake clean, and push the pistons back in, and put the caliper back on, you would be surprised how well the brakes work after this. I have the old style calipers I don't know if this will work with the new ones.
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #30  
Punjabi Rider's Avatar
Punjabi Rider
Grand HDF Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 277
From: Green Country Oklahoma
Default

Master cylinder has replaceable plunger which is not too expensive I will definitely replace it before go any further.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:22 AM.