Ive been working and now stuck
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
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From: Texas
Ive been working and now stuck
I posted earlier I have new wheels, new chrome legs, pulleys, rotors etc coming. Tonight I tore it down and got the front and rear wheels off, the fender off the outer faring etc...
I have a service manual coming this week but can someone tell me how to pull the forks loose from the trees? I see the lower pinch bolts and the top caps. Do the caps have to come off for the forks to slide out? if so how do you reach them? do you take part of the inner faring off? I see where the plate around the ignition can come off, but it doesn't look like the ignition comes with it. How do you get it all apart?
I have a service manual coming this week but can someone tell me how to pull the forks loose from the trees? I see the lower pinch bolts and the top caps. Do the caps have to come off for the forks to slide out? if so how do you reach them? do you take part of the inner faring off? I see where the plate around the ignition can come off, but it doesn't look like the ignition comes with it. How do you get it all apart?
Last edited by CaptainK; Aug 6, 2013 at 11:13 PM.
Search here and you'll find the details. The ignition switch comes off, with the key in you turn it all the way right and then push a little tab under the housing and it pops out. Be sure to search this as it's easy to get it out of time and it won't go back together.
You'll have to loosen the pinch bolts and remove the bolts in the top of the caps. Then they should slide right out.
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
step 1- only lift the bike as high as required for the job. ( like inches)
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed...rear wheel off, bike nosedives...
Mike
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed...rear wheel off, bike nosedives...
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 7, 2013 at 09:52 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
step 1- only lift the bike as high as required for the job.
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
Mike
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
Mike
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,015
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From: Moline, IL
step 1- only lift the bike as high as required for the job.
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed
Mike
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed
Mike
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
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From: Texas
If you look close it has a jack under the back, front and the Motor Cycle Jack in the middle. It was stable on the center jack, but knowing I would be pulling wheels, tires and forks, I decided to add additional jacks before getting started to ensure it stayed stabil. Believe me the Bike is soild, I just need to get the forks off now. I would like to know a Suggestion for getting the wheels off if it is only inches off the floor?
Where it is at now, it was a tight to get the back wheel out form under the bike.
I do agree looking at it, it looks to be in danger of falling l but I assure you I could climb on top of it and it not move. I will add a strap or two this evening.
Im getting off track here. I appreciate the concerns for my lifts and bike and I will verify I am happy with the way it is lifted this evening.
What I really want / need to know is how in the heck you acces the top fork caps, if they have to come off for the shocks to slide down?
Where it is at now, it was a tight to get the back wheel out form under the bike.
I do agree looking at it, it looks to be in danger of falling l but I assure you I could climb on top of it and it not move. I will add a strap or two this evening.
Im getting off track here. I appreciate the concerns for my lifts and bike and I will verify I am happy with the way it is lifted this evening.
What I really want / need to know is how in the heck you acces the top fork caps, if they have to come off for the shocks to slide down?
Last edited by CaptainK; Aug 7, 2013 at 12:53 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Texas
step 1- only lift the bike as high as required for the job. ( like inches)
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed...rear wheel off, bike nosedives...
Mike
while that looks easy on the back, the center of gravity is way high...and you are now about to start pushing and pulling on your bike.
twice I have had to go the Pal's houses and help them pick the bike off the floor.
even with a bike strapped down tight to a lift, the CG can be so high, and it can be so easy to forget that when removing the wheel ( for example) the balance point is changed...rear wheel off, bike nosedives...
Mike
Last edited by CaptainK; Aug 7, 2013 at 10:17 AM.
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From: Central Illinois
Here is the best, and lowest priced, tool made to put in the switch housing after you remove the lock ****. This will allow you to keep the lock aligned and still turn the forks and lock and unlock the switch, just like if the original **** was still installed. After you remove the ****, slide this tool in. I have the same tool from the same company and have used it several times and works great, without the horrific price of the Jims or Georges Garage tool.
http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm
Also, if you are planning to change the fork lowers yourself you will need this tool to install the seals into the new lowers. The seals are installed after installation of the fork tube into the lowers so you have to use this type of seal driver which acts like a slide hammer to drive the seals in. This is the same type of tool I bought (maybe even the same company, I can't remember now) and it worked like a charm. Just clean out the inside of any crap and put some oil inside to help it slide up and down on the tube (sorta like KY, lol)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Fork-...30919933309%26
For removal and installation of the allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork lowers (bolt holds the tubes into the lowers) you will want some long shank allen sockets. I believe they were metric but I don't have the manual here to check the size. You can get these for a good price at Harbor Freight and they work good. If you have no 3/8" drive impact to take them loose with, you can usually get them loose while the forks are still on the bike. Just crack them loose then pull the forks off as a unit then disassemble as per the manual.
http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm
Also, if you are planning to change the fork lowers yourself you will need this tool to install the seals into the new lowers. The seals are installed after installation of the fork tube into the lowers so you have to use this type of seal driver which acts like a slide hammer to drive the seals in. This is the same type of tool I bought (maybe even the same company, I can't remember now) and it worked like a charm. Just clean out the inside of any crap and put some oil inside to help it slide up and down on the tube (sorta like KY, lol)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Fork-...30919933309%26
For removal and installation of the allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork lowers (bolt holds the tubes into the lowers) you will want some long shank allen sockets. I believe they were metric but I don't have the manual here to check the size. You can get these for a good price at Harbor Freight and they work good. If you have no 3/8" drive impact to take them loose with, you can usually get them loose while the forks are still on the bike. Just crack them loose then pull the forks off as a unit then disassemble as per the manual.
Last edited by Guntoter; Aug 7, 2013 at 10:44 AM.