Engine Oil Question
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 336
Likes: 1
From: Senoia Ga
Incorrect. The only difference between automotive and motorcycle oils is the existence or lack of friction modifiers, since most models of motorcycle have wet clutches that share oil with the engine. The oils are otherwise virtually identical.
Not only that, but motorcycle engines use the same materials and technology that automotive engines do. So anything that would harm your motorcycle's engine would harm your car's engine as well.
Automotive oils not marked as energy conserving lack the friction modifiers and can also be safely used in a wet clutch.
Not only that, but motorcycle engines use the same materials and technology that automotive engines do. So anything that would harm your motorcycle's engine would harm your car's engine as well.
Automotive oils not marked as energy conserving lack the friction modifiers and can also be safely used in a wet clutch.
He is correct! Also about the wet clutches too!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,402
Likes: 941
From: Illinois
No! Nor is it any difference than using the $3.99/qt. Valvoline 20/50 MC rated oil from Wallyworld. I use it in all my machines from the Sportster to the CVO.
I may be cheap but the oil does the job that it is rated for so why waste $?
Buy the way the main factor of M/C oil is that it has higher shear factors than car motor oil which is needed for the higher operating temps of a air cooled motor. I know engineers that will add moly to their mc oil to make the engine last longer and do not have clutch issues in 100K of use on their Honda Runes. Moly is the principle element in car oil that is energy conserving.
This is worth repeating car motor oil is not the same as m/c rated oil period. Lets all say SHEAR FACTOR!
I may be cheap but the oil does the job that it is rated for so why waste $?
Buy the way the main factor of M/C oil is that it has higher shear factors than car motor oil which is needed for the higher operating temps of a air cooled motor. I know engineers that will add moly to their mc oil to make the engine last longer and do not have clutch issues in 100K of use on their Honda Runes. Moly is the principle element in car oil that is energy conserving.
This is worth repeating car motor oil is not the same as m/c rated oil period. Lets all say SHEAR FACTOR!
Last edited by lh4x4; Aug 12, 2013 at 10:00 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 13
From: NW Arkansas
That sounds like the smartest buy!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 9,113
From: Snow Hill, NC
I came to the conclusion by listening to a lot of rant and bull$**** and experts and then the plain simple truth...It's a early 1900's designed pushrod engine with low tolerances that uses the heaviest weight oil so as long as you use a sort of 50 weight oil, 0w50, 15w50, 20w50, straight 50 or even 60 weight...You are not gonna hurt that engine...Some say ...You spend $20k on a bike and you must treat it with all the quality ..bla bla bla...As long as you actually change the oil then you are treating it fine..Hell MOCO says you can use Diesel oil as a back up???? And change the oil at 5000 with dino oil 10000 mile primary and 20000 in tranny with simple Dino fluids so it ain't freakin rocket science.....
How often do you change the rear end oil in you car or truck or transmission in car or truck...think about it...
The oil companies are laughing all the way to the bank...
How often do you change the rear end oil in you car or truck or transmission in car or truck...think about it...
The oil companies are laughing all the way to the bank...
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: kentucky
my friend runs Rotella 15w40 year round. changes his oil every 3000 miles he has 65000 miles on his 03 Ultra Classic just changed his cam tensioners at 50,000 miles and only looks about half worn starting to make me wonder he also uses rotella 15w40 in his primary! and he uses the rotella gear lube 80/90 wt in his tranny must be okay he has 65000 miles on his bike runs like I remember when he got it back in 03
Last edited by dave anderson; Aug 13, 2013 at 08:23 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 28,842
Likes: 16,580
From: Wisconsin, USA
Mobil 1 VTwin 20-50 is on sale at Advance Auto this month. Online and in store. Good time to try it. I was using Dino oil, because my Indy told me it was quieter than Syn 3, but I don't notice any difference, between oil and syn, so figured might as well have syn to run cooler on hot days.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...bil1_8026542-p
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...bil1_8026542-p
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 797
Likes: 404
From: Middle Tennessee
Obviously we all have our personal beliefs and preferences when it comes to lubricants!
Years ago, back whe but the n H-D was adamant about not using and synthetic oil, I was running either H-D 60 wt OR Valvoline (dino) 60 wt Racing oil in my Shovelheads.
The difference these days as I see it, is starting with the T/C 96 engine, and now the T/C 103 and T/C 110's is that they run so much hotter that the Shovelheads, EVO's and T/C 88's ran that using synthetic oils in these newer engines does make a difference.
I doubt the name on the outside of the bottle makes much difference, but I do believe the contents do.
I'll use any brand of synthetic oil as long as it contains the additive for V-Twin engines and it's either 20w-50w, or 20w-60w, and ANY brand of oil needs to be changed regularly.
Years ago, back whe but the n H-D was adamant about not using and synthetic oil, I was running either H-D 60 wt OR Valvoline (dino) 60 wt Racing oil in my Shovelheads.
The difference these days as I see it, is starting with the T/C 96 engine, and now the T/C 103 and T/C 110's is that they run so much hotter that the Shovelheads, EVO's and T/C 88's ran that using synthetic oils in these newer engines does make a difference.
I doubt the name on the outside of the bottle makes much difference, but I do believe the contents do.
I'll use any brand of synthetic oil as long as it contains the additive for V-Twin engines and it's either 20w-50w, or 20w-60w, and ANY brand of oil needs to be changed regularly.
There is just too much research and evidence out there on synthetics in air cooled v-twins to use anything other than syn oils. Much better at handling high heat.
I have changed oil countless times in all of the families cars and my newest HD is the first I have used synthetic in.
If Amsoil was easier to get, I might consider it. I will use HD full syn while I am under warranty. No way there will be an oil issue if there is an internal problem even remotely related to oil.
I will say this, find an oil you like and stick with it if possible. I think switching brands from change to change is not a good idea. Additives should be consistent with each change.
Change it regularly, especially in hot weather. 5,000 is sufficient, I personally change mine between 3,000 and 4,000 miles.
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