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Yup-
I use the Scavenger, and wonder why all those with concerns about their oil and when to change it, do not consider what the Scavenger can do to prolong the life of the bike's engine.
Been using the Scavenger since it had about 750 miles......before that I used to wonder WTH is going on with my oil that after 200 miles it would start getting dirty looking. Well with 20% of it being dirty, I can't imagine why.
Is it still "changing" the oil if I'm just moving it from the bike to the lawnmower? In the 70's I rode a shovelhead, drove an old mercury and had a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower. I ran straight 50w in the shovel for 3,000 miles, dumped it into the car for 3,000, then the mower until the next time I had more oil. Never had a problem with any of them ............ people spend too much time sweating the small stuff.
That's great. I have never thought of swapping oil. I guess my rider is now going to get my scooter's used.
I just drain my oil and filter at no sooner than 5,000 miles. I use synthetic. I don't use a scavenger and my bike holds four quarts. Oil doesn't look dirty even at 5000 miles. I use the bike strictly for travel. I will maybe once a year go on a poker charity run, but the rest of the rides are at least eight hour days. Maybe this makes a difference.
I just drain my oil and filter at no sooner than 5,000 miles. I use synthetic. I don't use a scavenger and my bike holds four quarts. Oil doesn't look dirty even at 5000 miles. I use the bike strictly for travel. I will maybe once a year go on a poker charity run, but the rest of the rides are at least eight hour days. Maybe this makes a difference.
pretty sure it does. I mostly do straight runs for hours at a time. My oil starts looking a bit dark after 1500 miles and am told it means the oil's doing it's job. By 3500-4000 I dont like how dark and dirty it's starting to look, so the longest I go is between those two numbers.
There is no sense in buying a synthetic oil if you aren't going to run the full 5k miles. If your dumping it at 3k, put in std. oil. You can get an analisys for $12.00 that will tell you everything about your oil- then you know.
NO THEY DONT i have been a tech there for 11 years and they have never recommend a 20k oil change interval. your linking to an e calss that is also 2 generation behind and diesel not that it really matters.
Originally Posted by cptdenny
Mercedes recommends 20K miles oil changes now.
Here's the reasons behind it:
Oil life cycle:
Detergency cycle
5-10ppm per 1000 miles wear rate duration approx 1000 miles
Additive activation (EP additives)
Placement occurs after approx 50 hours of run time at normal operating temperature
Affected components: Cam, Lifters, Wrist pin, thrust bearing(s), Cam bearing journals,
After 1000 miles Wear rates drop to approx 1-3 ppm per 1000 miles, partially due to the detergents having done their job
now the additives are able to function uninhibited and prevent further wear. Now the TBN addtives as well as dispersents
will prevent the conglomeration of the combustion by-products and keep them evenly dispersed in the oil.
FWIW, an engine running a proper oil forumulation is generating wear metals to small to be removed by the oil filter. Typical wear metals and combustion
by-products are in the 50 nanometer to 1 micron range. The engines oil filter at best can only capture 7 micron particles with 90% efficiency.
After 20,000 miles without an oil change wear rates will still be at the 3-7ppm per 1000 mile range which is LESS than what occured in the 1st 1000 miles of the oils life.
If you plot the ACTUAL metals generated and with oil changes at anything less than 10K result in higher wear than if you were to simply run the oil for 25,000 miles.
Take an oil sample after the oil change and after the engine has been brought up to operating temperature. Then again at 500 miles and again at 10,000 miles and post it, that alone will prove that your are wasting not only your time but also showing where the highest wear is occuring. After you see those results you will be inclined to skip the 10K oil change and press on to 20K...
Is it still "changing" the oil if I'm just moving it from the bike to the lawnmower? In the 70's I rode a shovelhead, drove an old mercury and had a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower. I ran straight 50w in the shovel for 3,000 miles, dumped it into the car for 3,000, then the mower until the next time I had more oil. Never had a problem with any of them ............ people spend too much time sweating the small stuff.
Now thats recycling at its best!! Thats one lucky azz car to be gettin your harleys oil,lol...
If you really want to know how an oil stands up in your bike, have the oil send to a lab at 3K miles, and then every 1K miles until the lab tells you to change the oil, you only need to do this once. Then change to oil 1K miles short of what the lab recommended.
The above only works if you stick with the same oil, if you change formula or brand you have to start over.
In my V-Rod and Versys street bikes, I run Rotella 5w-40 synthetic. On both bikes I get change the oil on both bikes at 8K miles. Both bikes are also shared sump machines, which is even harder on the oil.
I'm still testing the oil for use in my Ultra, will post up when I get some results.
I think I may dote on my Harley’s as much as the next guy but let’s see…3,00 then 6,000, 9,000 etc….wait I have 42,000, is that divisible by 3? did I change at 41,000? Anything but 5k is just too complicated for me. 5,10,15,20,25,30,35,40,45kmi so much easier to figure and if you get lost, pull the stick, if its clean you changed it, if dark, you need to change it.
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