Long electrical/charging question???
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Christiana, Tn
Long electrical/charging question???
2000 flhr 48,750 miles built to 95". I was out for a ride last week and noticed my speedo/blinkers/odometer would not work. Acted just like a speedo sensor going bad so I didn't think to much about it. Went home, parked, and plugged up to battery tender. Last night I went out to check over everything for a ride today, and work on a stero issue I was having. When I turned the ignition on only the headlight and spotlights would come on. Nothing else on the bike worked and it would only click when hitting the starter. Turn the ignition off then back on and everything works and bike starts as it should. I continue to mess with it, 3 out of 5 times everything worked as it should. The other two times only headlight and spotlight would work, nothing else would come on and bike would not start. This morning symptoms continued. I checked all grounds, everything is good. Took the battery to two different parts stores for testing, one said replace the other said its good. Went to the Harley dealer and they tested it for me. According to them battery was bad, 223 cca. So I bought a new battery and installed it tonight. Now I can not reproduce the problem. Would a bad battery cause the intermittent issue? Also after installing the new battery and plugging in battery tender, after 4 hours tender is still solid yellow, which indicates that it is less than 80% charged. Is this normal for a new battery? Sorry for the long post, electrical stuff freaks me out a little lol
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the tender cannot be used as a definitive test....but I never assume a battery off the bench is fully charged.
i usually give them a full charge with a real charger before use
the ignition switch contacts could be on their way out, with time and wear the contacts can be come worn.
IF the contacts are overloaded, like by a high watt headlight bulb...then they can burn up.
if burnt, than they have carbon on them and that begins poor contact, the contact overheating further etc.
if you have a high watt bulb or spots, go back to the standard until you solve this
if you start to notice problems return...that are fixed with a wiggle on the ign.
then think about fixing it in your driveway, rather than standing roadside some day.
I'm pretty good with electricity, you can PM me if you have further trouble, or other symptoms
mike
i usually give them a full charge with a real charger before use
the ignition switch contacts could be on their way out, with time and wear the contacts can be come worn.
IF the contacts are overloaded, like by a high watt headlight bulb...then they can burn up.
if burnt, than they have carbon on them and that begins poor contact, the contact overheating further etc.
if you have a high watt bulb or spots, go back to the standard until you solve this
if you start to notice problems return...that are fixed with a wiggle on the ign.
then think about fixing it in your driveway, rather than standing roadside some day.
I'm pretty good with electricity, you can PM me if you have further trouble, or other symptoms
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 23, 2013 at 12:04 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,635
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From: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
the ignition switch contacts could be on their way out, with time and wear the contacts can be come worn.
IF the contacts are overloaded, like by a high watt headlight bulb...then they can burn up.
if burnt, than they have carbon on them and that begins poor contact, the contact overheating further etc.
IF the contacts are overloaded, like by a high watt headlight bulb...then they can burn up.
if burnt, than they have carbon on them and that begins poor contact, the contact overheating further etc.
Not the first time i've it happen.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,422
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From: Fla
A weak battery can do that...
But, I also agree with Mike. If you have no further problems after a complete charge on the battery, don't let it bother you too much. If the problem re-occurs in the future, I'd suggest checking the ignition switch. The switch is fairly cheap, last I checked it was around 25 bucks.
Most people just buy another switch. I took mine apart, and found the ignition contacts were burnt, so I switched that one contact with the accessory contact. That was 4 years ago. No problem since.
But, I also agree with Mike. If you have no further problems after a complete charge on the battery, don't let it bother you too much. If the problem re-occurs in the future, I'd suggest checking the ignition switch. The switch is fairly cheap, last I checked it was around 25 bucks.
Most people just buy another switch. I took mine apart, and found the ignition contacts were burnt, so I switched that one contact with the accessory contact. That was 4 years ago. No problem since.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
You should use a battery charger on your new battery, not a tender. Despite new batteries being described as 'fully charged' they are not! Or take your bike for a very long ride, to give the new battery a good boost from the charging system. A tankful on one ride should do it! It is quite possible the old battery had an internal fault, causing the symptoms you had.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,504
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From: DOWN SOUTH
A battery can have voltage for days and not CCA. It is very possible that there was a cell starting to go dead by one of the posts (see it in the military motorpool all the time) Just because they sell you a new battery, no tellin how long its been sitting on the shelves and prolly only 70%-80% charged when you get it, even though it has never been installed in anything. Best thing to so is as suggested above, take it out for a few hours of riding to charge it, or charge it with a old skool battery charger before you use it.
Last edited by my67pnycar; Aug 23, 2013 at 05:56 AM.
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Tourer
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From: Christiana, Tn
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Tourer
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From: Christiana, Tn
Thanks to everyone for the help. Went for a two ride yesterday and everything worked great. When I got home it took about an hour for the battery tender to show in the green. Now if I could get that pesky gas leak fixed....
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