I have been inundating myself with handlebar options for the last 3 days since arrving back from a 1300 mile ride on my 13 RKC. I think I have narrowed my choices down but then started thinking about changing lines and wonder how the new ABS brake bleeding works?

Oh, I think the w0 502 wild ones are my new bar...i think...LOL
In the mean time, got V&H x pipe headers, big sucker ac and PC to install to keep me busy!

 

Manual says you need to have the brakes bled on the Digital Tech at the dealer to ensure all air is out of the system. I did my own bars and bled in the normal fashion and then rode it to the dealer for bleeding on the digital tech. Charged me 1/2 hour labor. Well worth the peace of mind IMHO.

 

1. You MAY be able to get away with the 12.5 bars without changing the brake line on a Roadking. It is routed funny in the nacelle so there is a surprising amount of room. The last RK bars I did were 14" so I didn't even try...

2. The trick to the ABS thing is getting the least amount of air in the module as possible. I have done at least 20 sets of bars on ABS bikes and have never had to bleed the module. If you do, you will get an error light. No light and good lever pressure means you are GTG...

 

Yeah, dealer had to do bleed on mine too. ABS won't work properly. If you're just changing the front line, I heard of some guys getting away with it. I replaced all my lines with braided.

 

Not always true...It's all in the technique...

 

Dealer bleeding my brakes ain't in my vocabulary lol

 

+1

I've done several of these as well. Used a MityVac brake bleeder and have yet to have to send one to the dealer. The biggest thing to remember is not to turn on the ignition while its all apart. If you do the ABS will cycle and suck air into the system. This is not a job to be afraid of.

 

I got a mity vac and dang sure ain't afraid of doing the work. I just heard a horror story about having to use the digital tech and i really want to avoid that. i might just go ahead and do it and go from there. Thank you guys!

 

Replace the top line going from the ABS module to the master cylinder then reverse bleed the line.
I mean use your mityvac to PUSH fluid up from a brake caliper up the line to fill the master cylinder.

Then bleed like normal. Ensures pretty much no air passes the ABS module.

Pretty easy... just sayin.

lp

 

That's the secret right there in bold! As long as you don't cycle the ignition all the ABS valves are closed and you can bleed the brakes just like conventional brakes. As long as the valves remain closed you can't get air into the ABS module. If you turn the ignition on while it's apart or anytime there is air in the system, then all bets are off because the ABS valves will cycle when you turn on the ignition. Be sure you are satisfied with your bleeding process and you have a firm lever before you start the bike or turn on the ignition. If not, and there is any air in the system, it may find its way into the ABS module - then you may need to cycle the ABS module during bleeding and that's where the Digital Technician comes into the picture.

As a precaution you might want to pull the ABS fuse before you start. That way if you inadvertently turn on the ignition you will not be cycling the ABS Module. You could even leave the fuse out until after your initial test ride to be sure you are satisfied with the feel of the brakes following your conventional bleeding process.