I have the Burley blocks on my wife's '14 Street Glide Special.

Best option? probably not. I'll be fixing on the height issue for some time. My wife is 5'2".


Yes, they will work on a Street Glide Special, and on a CVO, but not with the shocks they come with.

I got a pair of new take-offs from a 2012 Street Glide and put them on her '14 SGS, WITH the lowering blocks.

What nobody is telling is why they don't work on a CVO or a SGS, the reason is the "One Hand Adjustable" coil-over shocks. The spring cup hits the blocks, there is not enough clearance.
But by finding a pair of take-offs, (I had 3 offers on this website alone,) you can do it. A new set can be had for under $250 if you look around.

The upside to taking the Hand adjustable 12" shocks off of her SGS?







I got a new set of $500 had asjustable shocks on my '14 FLHTK *wink*






.

 

My 2000 EGC came with lowering blocks on the rear (about an inch). I don't think the front was modified at all. The bike handled poorly, the front end was nervous, especially accelerating around corners. Had to pump up the air in the shocks to keep the tire from bottoming out. Took them off and the bike now handles great, no more twitchy front end.

So basically what I'm saying is if you need a lowered bike because of your lack of inseam, do it properly. Get shorter shocks for the rear AND make the equal adjustments to the forks to keep the geometry happy, happy, happy!



cheers

 

I didn't say any such thing!

 

I've used these.

Had them a couple years now and no problems.

 

Gr, I will not argue with you. I have more respect for you than virtually any other member. And that's no lie. You just take the "buy good shocks" to the extreme. I did a quick search, and in minutes I found 100 of your posts saying buy shocks, and any other option was a mistake. Your the full blown poster child for Howard and Motorcycle metal. Again, you are not wrong and I almost always agree with you, but you push the shock is the only option a little hard.

 

I haven't mentioned him!

So why do I discourage the use of a bolt-in lowering block? As an engineer I see probably the most highly stressed part of the bike, where the rear shock is joined to the swingarm, being compromised by an add-on bracket that adds additional stress by it's very design. A fully loaded touring Harley can weigh around 1200 pounds and to put the forces generated through the suspension into a cheap add-on is just darned unwise, made worse by also altering the shock angle in the wrong direction.

Furthermore, many Harley owners buy cheap shocks to lower their ride, without any regard for the consequences on reduced ride quality. Shorter shocks generally come with reduced travel, meaning they have less opportunity to dampen road shocks. Cheap shocks come with mediocre damping and generic springs. Short shocks can only reliably provide comparable or better ride quality to stock shocks by replacement with a higher quality design than stock.

You should continue your research in HDF and look out the many members who have changed shocks, in some cases several times over, wasting time and cash on cheap brands and suffering poor ride quality as a consequence. The advice to repeat that course of action, with the real prospect of a lousy ride, is a something that is repeated far more frequently on HDF than the modest effort I expend in here on the subject.

 

Again, GR, that's my point. Please understand, I have the highest respect and don't wish to argue with you. As I just saw, you jumped into your standard "why new shocks are the answer". Your very well read and very well versed. We all thank you for your input. But its like you sit back and actively search out shock and suspension posts so can can tell the world why they have to upgrade to the best suspension possible, rather than realizing there can be a happy medium for many riders.

 

The LA Choppers 1" lowering blocks should work fine with a stock 2007 Road Glide. As others have stated, a 1" drop is supportable...anymore and you might have tire/fender clearance issues.

I have sold the bike now, but I had the 1" LA Choppers lowering blocks on my 2004 Road King for many thousands of mile. I never had an issue with them, or with the ride. I selected them because they left the shocks in their stock (or nearly so) vertical orientation, i.e., didn't change the angle.

Alan

 

So gr, what is the best shock to use if a person needs to get 1" lower on a 2014 Limited and not loose ride quality ?

 

Since my bike is a FLHTP it came with 13" shocks. I didn't like the stance and even seemed too tall for me, I'm 5'10". I dropped the front end with 2" drop progressive springs and went to 11" Progressives in the back. It didn't sit level so I got the Road 6 blocks and dropped it another inch, handling didn't change at all and I like the ride better than the stock 13".