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I was bored today, got home early and while it was sunny and 60 earlier today, I couldn't beat the cool air home. It got cold fast, so I decided to forego the 75 more break in miles for today.. Plus I'm tired.. Anyway rather than watch TV, and as I'm waiting for the wire extensions to get here (tomorrow!!) I decided to do a practice run and see what all is entailed when I put on my new 14" KSTs... I used what I've read here in the forum as an extra to the Service Manual. Here's what I learned today: 1. This is easy. Why on earth would anyone pay $1000 for a bar change? There's a total of 20 bolts to remove; 4 for the fairing, 2 for the dash plate, 4 for the turn signal brackets, the 4 double lugs under those, and 4 on the bar clamp. You CAN handle this yourself. It takes less than 15 minutes to access the bar clamp, and that's being exceedingly careful and attentive and referring to the manual to clarify all that im looking at. Might take you another 30-45 min to disassemble the bars, and re-assembly would be even quicker ( I'm not counting the internal wiring, or the bleed process, or all the beers in between.) 2. As mentioned here earlier, there is no need to remove the ignition key. The dash panel is notched, and when unscrewed, turning the bars will enable you to work it out gently. 3. TBW won't need to be extended. I'm not sure how high bars it'll work with but there's a HUGE loop that is cable tie'd down, I'd estimate maybe 16" of extra length. 4. I'm almost positive I'll need the +8 cables I bought. I looked at re-routing the brake and clutch lines, and I found all the cable tie'd areas and tried to puzzle a way to move them. I'm gonna try it, but looking at the sheer height and width of the new bars next to the old ones makes me doubt that the re-routing will be successful; but that's okay. I'm perfectly comfortable bleeding the lines. I don't have ABS, so that's even easier, though I'd really rather not. It's a boring process, I'm a nuts and bolts and fastener guy. 5. There's a crapload of terminated, unconnected ports under there. I need to find out what all I can buy! The dry run set my mind at ease, I'm more than qualified to handle the bar change without any surprises. I disassembled, inspected (marveled? Gaped? Looks-Loo?) and reassembled it in just an hour half. There's really nothing for new guys or those not real mechanically inclined to be afraid of, unless you count the bleeding, IF it's needed; which is understandable, but this can be learned without too much trouble, with the exception of ABS equipped bikes which need an HD Digital Technician or equivalent. When I actually change my bars, I'll take pics of the things I noticed today and make notes of locations, removal, and assembly tips as I go; should be a great time, I can't wait!
The internal wiring IS the biggest PITA but not nearly as bad as I thought. If you don't have heated grips, it will be a lot easier.
I don't have heated grips, though I'd like them.. Was planning to get some and do that at the same time but I don't really like any of the styles..
I used the H-D wire extensions. The TBW is ridiculously long as you noted. The only issue I almost had was the heated grip power cable on the left side. On my 10" Yaffee Monkey Bagger bars, that wire just barely stuck out of the bars. Any taller and I would have had to extend that somehow.
That left heated grip with the controls is a tight fit into the bars as well.
The short wire sticking straight up in the attached photo is the heated grip power cable I'm talking about.
Last edited by offthewall; Feb 10, 2015 at 09:20 PM.
I had to extend my heated grip harness to work with the 14 KSTs. I'd have like a little more with the canbus extensions as well; it's all working but was kind of tighter than I'd like, really... Ah wel, I know what to do next time! In the meantime? Gonna enjoy this.
Im getting ready to install 12" Yaffe bagger bars on my 2014 FLHX. I have some questions about this install from you guys that have already done the install. With the 2014 and later did you have to do any de-pinning? Which directions did you pull the left control wires from? Which direction did you pull the right wires from. It looks as though on the 14 and later you can unplug the right control wires and pull them from the bottom. And and all help is appreciated.
I pulled the left side from the bottom first with all plugs in tact. Then I depinned the 6 pin Molex connector for the throttle by wire sensor and pulled that through, then pulled the right side switch wires from the bottom with all connectors in tact. I used a heavy braided string with a nut tired to it to fish through first. On the right side I ran two through so that I could leave one in while pulling the tbw wires for the switch wires. I also used some electritions wire lube I picked up at home depot. It was not hard at all, but do not buy the Harley twist grip sensor without the green connector as the plug is reversed from what you need on the 2014, just use the factory twist grip sensor.
Originally Posted by Akmountainman
Im getting ready to install 12" Yaffe bagger bars on my 2014 FLHX. I have some questions about this install from you guys that have already done the install. With the 2014 and later did you have to do any de-pinning? Which directions did you pull the left control wires from? Which direction did you pull the right wires from. It looks as though on the 14 and later you can unplug the right control wires and pull them from the bottom. And and all help is appreciated.
Im getting ready to install 12" Yaffe bagger bars on my 2014 FLHX. I have some questions about this install from you guys that have already done the install. With the 2014 and later did you have to do any de-pinning? Which directions did you pull the left control wires from? Which direction did you pull the right wires from. It looks as though on the 14 and later you can unplug the right control wires and pull them from the bottom. And and all help is appreciated.
I unplugged the switch wires from both sides of the controls and then pulled those through from the bottom to the top. On the TBW (right), I de-pinned the large connector and pulled those wires from top to bottom (opposite direction). I have a Limited so I also pulled the left heated grip controls from the top to bottom (no de-pining required).
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