I can't imagine it being easier to remove the switch. The switch cover slides right off after removing 2 screws. I just put bars on. I adjusted my bars about 4-5 times in the last week, so I've had that cover off as many times.

The service manual describes the procedure.

 

You do not need to remove the ignition switch on the '14 i promiss you.

 

So I bought the harley plug and play extended harness. When I go to pull the wires is it possible to leave the factory plugs on or do they have to be depinned? I did buy the new tbw the eliminates that connector.

 

You can pull them without depinning. On 12s, you can pull the factory wires and then add the extensions.

 

I pulled mine from the bottom to the hand grips. The little white plugs at the switch pack ends are a lot smaller. No de-pinning.

 

I did no depinning with my install also! Glad to see this thread is helping others with their install!! I honestly didn't think so many people would comment on this when I wrote it! I removed my ignition switch on mine when I installed the bars! I was going by the service manual to the tee!! Hope everyone is as satisfied with their bars as I am...

 

thanks for the help everyone!

 

guys also curious if you are running the factory rubber riser bushings or if you changed to poly. Seems to be mixed reviews so looking for advice

 

I was bored today, got home early and while it was sunny and 60 earlier today, I couldn't beat the cool air home. It got cold fast, so I decided to forego the 75 more break in miles for today.. Plus I'm tired..

Anyway rather than watch TV, and as I'm waiting for the wire extensions to get here (tomorrow!!) I decided to do a practice run and see what all is entailed when I put on my new 14" KSTs... I used what I've read here in the forum as an extra to the Service Manual. Here's what I learned today:

1. This is easy. Why on earth would anyone pay $1000 for a bar change? There's a total of 20 bolts to remove; 4 for the fairing, 2 for the dash plate, 4 for the turn signal brackets, the 4 double lugs under those, and 4 on the bar clamp. You CAN handle this yourself. It takes less than 15 minutes to access the bar clamp, and that's being exceedingly careful and attentive and referring to the manual to clarify all that im looking at. Might take you another 30-45 min to disassemble the bars, and re-assembly would be even quicker ( I'm not counting the internal wiring, or the bleed process, or all the beers in between.)

2. As mentioned here earlier, there is no need to remove the ignition key. The dash panel is notched, and when unscrewed, turning the bars will enable you to work it out gently.

3. TBW won't need to be extended. I'm not sure how high bars it'll work with but there's a HUGE loop that is cable tie'd down, I'd estimate maybe 16" of extra length.

4. I'm almost positive I'll need the +8 cables I bought. I looked at re-routing the brake and clutch lines, and I found all the cable tie'd areas and tried to puzzle a way to move them. I'm gonna try it, but looking at the sheer height and width of the new bars next to the old ones makes me doubt that the re-routing will be successful; but that's okay. I'm perfectly comfortable bleeding the lines. I don't have ABS, so that's even easier, though I'd really rather not. It's a boring process, I'm a nuts and bolts and fastener guy.

5. There's a crapload of terminated, unconnected ports under there. I need to find out what all I can buy!

The dry run set my mind at ease, I'm more than qualified to handle the bar change without any surprises. I disassembled, inspected (marveled? Gaped? Looks-Loo?) and reassembled it in just an hour half. There's really nothing for new guys or those not real mechanically inclined to be afraid of, unless you count the bleeding, IF it's needed; which is understandable, but this can be learned without too much trouble, with the exception of ABS equipped bikes which need an HD Digital Technician or equivalent.

When I actually change my bars, I'll take pics of the things I noticed today and make notes of locations, removal, and assembly tips as I go; should be a great time, I can't wait!

 

Nice job.